Disassemble and soak that carb in a gallon of carb cleaner for at least a day, I use an organic from Gunk (brand) that doesn't pit the metals. Take a fine wire and start sliding in the jets and passageways. Look at it logically, if the passage doesn't have a hole at the other end, you need to guesstimate if the wire reaching the turn, then pull it out and goe find what you believe is the corresponding passage to get to the turn.
BE PATIENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The exact point where you are at, you are angry at the tractor, angry at us for not giving you a simple fix. PATIENCE and perseverence to go slow and DO IT RIGHT is where you need to be now!
Go study an old book on carbs for farm machinery, follow the designs of the carb's passageways, you will learn what and how it works, then you can "fix" the problem.
This may mean a trip to your local library which you can do while the carb is soaking...
You are close to getting it going, everyone is following this thread and helping you out, others are cheering for you, else the number of views would be lower.
Just follow everyones advice, I see for example you blame the fuel pump, its not a pump issue, you probably have fuel in the carb bowel, just not through the jets.
DON'T BLOW AIR INTO THE CARB WHERE THE FUEL GOES IN ELSE YOU WILL CRUSH THE FLOAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

drujinin gives good advice, but rather than using a fine wire, I use a set of torch tip cleaners to check the passageways and jets. Start out with the smallest one and work up but do NOT turn or twist the cleaners as that could ream the passages and jets out over sized. Once I think I have a passageway clear, I'll blow air through it to double check that it IS clear.

Time, patience and a gentle touch is what it takes.

Non-existant user wrote:

does anybody know where i can get a carb rebuild kit? i have the original zenith carb

At the top of this forum there is a sticky for cat parts sources, look there for The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO. I ordered a kit from them last year and it seemed pretty complete.

i will go ahead and get a gallon of carb cleaner as well as cleaning everything again... i am still planning on buying a carb kit so i can put all new gaskets in so i don't have to worry about the carb leaking gas and catching on fire again...(it decided to backfire) also the 90 that goes into the carb broke were can i get it?

Drujinin is right about taking your time (and at your age you have FAR more time ahead of you than most of us).
I mentioned blowing into the carburetor with your mouth, don't use an air hose, you will crush the float. This is one method of being able to tell if the float valve is plugged. Even with your young lungs you'll only be able to blow 1 or 2 psi into the carb, but you'll be able to feel if any air (breath) is going in or not.

Take the carburetor apart and just sit down and study it for a while. Spend some "Quality Time" with your carburetor. Become "ONE" with your carb and bond with it. Maybe even take it out to a movie, ...well that might be a bit too much.
You WILL have a much better idea of what to look for if you fully understand how it works. See where the gas goes through all the passageways, which jets are connected to the needles, where the air vents out of the bowl, etc. I am Far from being an "expert" on carburetors, but I have learned enough over the years (just by "figuring them out") to stay out of trouble.

Hang in there.

BTW, Sorry I missed your call last night. You must have left the message while I was outside with the dog just before I went to bed. I should be around this evening.

Hi Team,
the best data I have for the 22 Zen Carb is from a War Department Technical Manual for the R4 Tractor.

The Carb appears to be similar but alas, it does not show the jet passages. It does have pictures of the jet positions and uses. From this you should be able to follow the passages, as Rich pointed out above. Zenith carbs seen to be over complicated with the jets and tubes etc they have and one little bit of crud can cause the problems you are experiencing.

Some passages may have drillings coming in from 90deg to each other and others may turn with a small lead plug at the junction. Drill out the plug to clear the passage as needed. I would use a bb slug of lead (or similar)to replug the passage junction.
Copy this to your 'puter for future referance. I will keep looking thru my books to see if I can find better layout of the passages.

Rich has given good advice, when you get cheesed off with it stand back and do something else for a while. Think about the issue and try to look at it in a different way.
I was told by an Old Cat mechanic that man built it so man can fix it--sometimes it takes some dogged persistance to get 'er done. You will learn a lot about life with this thing. Remember--- Patience is a Virtue. You will get it done and be able to say" I fixed that"

On my 2Ton I had what I thought were carb problems as it was running lean and spitting back thru the carb. I eventually found after removing the manifolds that with another carb fitted(side draught) that the engine ran as it should. The problem was that the manifold had rusted thru to the exhaust hot box and was drawing in extra air and running lean.
Check your inlet manifold gaskets are sound and not leaking, sometimes squirting some gas around the gasket joints whilst the engine is running will allow the gas to be drawn in and the engine to pickup and run a bit better, or even oil squirted there to part block the leak can help.
Then maybe look for a crack or rust hole in the hot box area causing the leanness. Sometimes we need to think outside the square as they say.

The 90deg. fitting you are looking for to go in the Banjo fitting should be available from a NAPA or auto supply store, take your samples and look for the old grey headed Partsman and you should be good to go.

Keep at 'er Mate, and "Man Will Triumph Over Metal"--as another old Mechanic told me when i was a wet behind the ears Apprentice at The Dealer.
Hope the pix help.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

i went to autozone with what i thought was the carb model and i got that it was either
Zenith
K5A
ZB5738
1070A or 7070A and at NAPA they had no record of that carb... what is the number? is there a different newer number instead?
i will get the carb apart and in the carb cleaner, how long should i keep it in there? and i can reuse it can't i?(i also have a 1944 CASE vai i'm working on slowly)

i am still up at 2am lol i just got done with putting my carb/every litle part that comes outta it... in the gallon of carb cleaner and since i was on a roll i took my 1944 case carb off and did it also(i am rebuilding the top end)... every bolt now has threads:lol:... then i got bored and cleaned my shop...(i'm kinda spoiled we bought my grandpa's place and we live out back and built our shop as well as my g-pa had one so now my parrents have theirs and i have mine...(only bad thing is i am starting to see how bad it really is if you loose a tool:( )

ps does anyone know a good case tractor forum??? as well i am now an official member... i just payed my dues...

There are "stickies" up at the top of the Forum page that have good places to call for Carb kits and they usually give "free" advice.
As far as Case forums, good old trusty Goole will help get there.
My gallon of Gunk brand Carb Cleaner is about 20 years old and had dozens of Carbs in it. Yes it is re-usable. As far as dunking time, the directions should state as some brands will eat pot metal carbs so it is usually listed.
Jeff

i posted about the time before i thought about it(for the carb cleaner)... it said 20min's so i did a good ole 30-45min's depending on how bad the parts were... ok what fuel can you run through it? i know gas and kerosene, im assuming not diesel because it has so much carbon???
ok now for the hard part lol what lub's do i need??? to start off what do i need for the tranny, final drive, the track rollers, crankcase front idler??? also the lube chart i have seen if i remember correctly says i need to fill the mag??? i have an american bosh... do i need to and if so what lube do i use and were does it go?



i heated it up to try to get threads out but it aslo messed some of the threads up but we will see how it works