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Thread: 315 Head removed D45T

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fremantle West Australia
    Posts
    35

    Default 315 Head removed D45T

    I took some good advice last month from many on the BB when my main was seized and I have removed the head. She sat idle for 2 years during pony issues - Finally solved that with a new magneto cover.

    IMG_8772.jpgIMG_8769.jpg

    The first 3 pots were wet and waxy clumps. The front pot nearest the radiator had a few gold fish growing it was so full of water. Hmmm I recall two years ago flushing the radiator with a hose and maybe ? that was counter productive. Anyway the head has gone to the best man in the local town. The pots are soaking now in trans fluid and acetone. I will then l clean them up Ol Grump style with a drill attached scuffing disc, then rag and dsl fire. Then I will try to persuade some movement again with a lump of fine local timber. Every bit of advice on top of that is most enjoyed.

    Oh I have a head gasket but how many rubber grommets do I need ? Do they still come with the ferrals ? inside them ? Has anyone part numbers for all those ?

    Regards and thank you. Auscuscus

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Bainbridge NY
    Posts
    478

    Default

    After honing my cylinders to remove the rust, I welded up a U shaped cradle that attached to the head bolts on My D2. I made the cradle high enough to put a small bottle jack with a 3.950 diameter round slug under it & on top of the piston. This allowed me to put pressure on the top of the piston and gently push down. Every day for a week I added more PB blaster and pressure and she broke lose. However I did end up changing my rings as I had a couple broken.
    Best of luck
    Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    victoria australia
    Posts
    1,596

    Default Liners

    Hi auscuscus,
    you will need to secure the liners in the block as when one stuck piston lets go any other stuck ones needing to rise will lift their liners in the block, then all the rusty crud in the block coolant passages will fall into the sump.
    The ferrule seals come seperate to the ferrules. Just remove the seals and clean up the ferrules and fit your new seals. Watch the fingers as the ferrule ends are sharp.
    From the pix it looks like you need 6-6B6225 big seals and 4-7B2419 small seals. As an apprentice at The Dealer I usually got the job of changing the ferrule seals. Lightly clamp the ends of the ferrules in a vice and lever the seal over the ridge on the ferrule, or cur 'em of with a Stanly knife. To install we used to clamp a piece suitable rod in the vice to slip the ferrule onto and then with some soft soap stretch/slide the seal on. One side of the ferrule ridge has a bit more taper than the other, this aids in fitting the seals.
    Cheers,
    Eddie B.

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