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Thread: D69U inoperable brake

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    oregon
    Posts
    281

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    use kerosene to wash your compartments. you will want to verify your rubber grease hoses going to the release bearings are not rotted and dumping grease into the compartment instead of into the bearing. unless you are going to religiously drain your compartments or you run in water leave those bottom plugs out! it does not take much oil and its into the bottom of the brake drum. you should not need to replace your lining unless your lining is wore out. get your brakes adjusted up per the manual and they will work.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Paso Robles, CA
    Posts
    936

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    I want to agree with u-joint about leaving the plug out in the bottom. But after others having mice enter through the bottom plug whole, and bees taking up residence in one I have acquired. The idea of the plug being drilled and then putting a cotter pin in is sounding more like a worth while thing.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    oregon
    Posts
    281

    Default

    hmm?

    interesting! I have never seen bees nest in something that close to the ground but that is a interesting thought. mice though you have a point! they get into everything. when I got my 9U 3 years ago I noticed the right brake took a lot of energy to get it to operate. would not hold that side from turning but would sort of slow it. the pedal had good resistance but no hold. I decided to check the compartment for oil. someone had drilled it with a cotter pin and had a chain dangling from it in theory making it wiggle? I had a horrid time getting a square drive in the square as there was this cotter pin where the square drive goes. after many bad words and an hour farting around in the snow I finally get the pin mashed enough to get a ratchet in the plug. not sure how anyone got it that tight? anyway get the plug out and I would estimate 5 gallons of water drained out. the hole had greased itself shut around the cotterpin. this ruined the cotterpin/chain theory for me?


    fast forward to this year. the tractor had sat many years before I bought it. I had to go into the left side as the steer shaft in the deck froze up and would not return. the idiots must have tightened the deck lid bolts with a air gun. I broke 8 3/8 bolts, 7 of them were non cat bolts. I decided to check the right side since I had the tank off and it had water in it years back. someone else must have did the deck lid bolts on that side as they were all loose and rather than use a nice gasket they reused both gaskets on both sides with clear silicone. the water came through the gasket or lack of/
    Last edited by u-joint; 12-25-2018 at 07:49 PM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Corralitos, Ca.
    Posts
    14,601

    Default

    There is a technique to installing the cottor pin "wiggler".
    First use a 3/16" cottor pin in a 1/4" hole.
    Use a cottor pin that is long enough to dangle.
    Bend just the tips of the cottor pin legs so that the removal wrench lifts the cottor pin so that it does not interfere with the wrench.

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