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Thread: Do steering clutches self-center?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    San Joaquin County, CA
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    25

    Default Do steering clutches self-center?

    Hi all. Maybe Iím over thinking this, but probably better off asking before I go any further. Iím in the process of re-building the steering clutches on my D7 17A. I uncompessed the springs and noticed that the inner driving drum is favoring one side versus the other instead of being perfectly centered. Is this something I should correct now, or will it self-center once installed in the machine?

    Thanks!
    -Nick4E4D174C-1151-44C1-9230-84F46B14928C.jpg13FA1FD6-FF82-46DA-8EF4-3CC69B640338.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Corralitos, Ca.
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    14,600

    Default

    Assembly instructions are to keep things as concentric as possible, doesn't need to be precise.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    victoria australia
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    3,032

    Default Steer Clutch Paltes

    Hi Team,
    as O M said, you should endeavor to assemble the stack as concentric and true as possible and with the teeth aligned as true as you can or else you may not be able to align the brake drum, to the spigot on the pinion shaft flange, into the drum--if this happens the drum may pulsate the brake pedal up and down under your foot--the bolts retaining the drum to the flange may also cross thread due to alignment issues--have seen all these issues over time due to sloppy practices with assembly alignment.

    Worn or loose bevel shaft or final drive pinion shaft bearings can cause head aches too with drum and flange alignment upon assembling them together.
    Worn/loose shaft bearings also can cause the pack plates to engage off centre in use, and cause brake pedal pumping--along with wearing out the plate and drum splines further exacerbating the problem.
    The plate splines work as a flexible coupling, within designed parameters--if exceeded, excessive spline and tooth wear takes place.
    So to sum up, the steer clutch pack plates do self centre when working but, they need to initially be assembled as true as you can make them for ease of assembly etc.
    Cheers,
    Eddie B.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Pittsford NY
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    Default

    The instructions for the D2 have a technique to use the drum to stack the plates in before tightening the springs. Perhaps the D7 instructions have the same guidance?
    Cheers,
    Neil.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    San Joaquin County, CA
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    Default

    All the frictions and steels are stacked in and lined up fine. I was mostly worried about how necessary it was to have the outermost edges of the inner driving drum be perfectly centered over the middle of the frictions and steels. If you look at the pics i posted, the outer edge of the inner driving drum is shoved closer to one edge of the outer brake drum. I have no trouble at all with lifting the outer brake drum off of the assembly and dropping it right back on; it clears the inner drum without making any contact.

    -Nick

  6. #6
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    Jan 2018
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    San Joaquin County, CA
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    Default

    I have a few more questions with this 17A. So the whole teardown started off with a leaking transmission. Both at the input shaft and at the back of the trans where it bolts up to the bevel gear housing. Naturally, once you pull it apart, its like opening pandoraís box. Three teeth on the trans output pinion were badly chipped, and a couple internal gears were fairly pitted, so my friends in the used parts division at Holt bros. found me a good used pinion and bevel gear out of state and brought them in, as well as a few other good used gears they had on the shelf. Since everything had to come out anyways to get the bevel gear out, I opted to rebuild both steering clutches and reline the brake bands. Also, I forgot to mention that all the bolts that mate the trans to the bevel gear housing were super loose. We removed them with none other than a stubby wrench. Makes a little more sense as to why the output pinion would fail......

    Once the trans was out, we saw that the entire bevel gear compartment was lined with a layer of blackened crusty, charred, baked-on oil. My plan is to brush all that crud out with a wire brush and use a little two-gallon handheld weed sprayer and fill it with diesel and use it to soak the crud and wash it out of the compartment. Curious as to what may have occurred with any of the machineís previous owners for the oil to get that hot to crust on there like that. ......trans pump failure??

    Also, once we got the old bevel gear out, we noticed that the flange on the bevel gear shaft had a chunk torched out of it in between where two of the bevel gear bolts go through the flange. Just wondering whats the reason someone would have done that for? Iím not one to put compromised parts like that back in, so I opted for the $400 new aftermarket Italian-made GCR bevel shaft. Iíve always been skeptical of aftermarket parts, but this one looks pretty nice and all the measurements are dead-on. 52FFF127-3EC5-4825-BEBC-074AEBD9671E.jpg83EC04F9-DAF9-4848-8FFA-67B99B47BBA0.jpg

    Anyhow, thats where Iím at.

    -Nick
    Last edited by NickyWalnuts; 06-24-2019 at 07:00 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Pittsford NY
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NickyWalnuts View Post
    All the frictions and steels are stacked in and lined up fine. I was mostly worried about how necessary it was to have the outermost edges of the inner driving drum be perfectly centered over the middle of the frictions and steels. If you look at the pics i posted, the outer edge of the inner driving drum is shoved closer to one edge of the outer brake drum. I have no trouble at all with lifting the outer brake drum off of the assembly and dropping it right back on; it clears the inner drum without making any contact.

    -Nick
    You're good - no need to get it any better than that.
    Cheers,
    Neil.

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