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10 Ton Carb Cracked ? Best Fix

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16 years 11 months ago #8592 by rustrunner
Had problems keeping the 10 Ton for running rich and thought it was a float problem. Working on the Kingston L3, found a small crack in the carb. The carb is solid brass, and the crack is on the bottom of the carb, inside the bowl. this crack allows gas to be sucked up into the air intake chamber and allow fuel to enter the carb above the needle valve, thus the running rich.

Any suggestions on a fix. THis is one of the large L3's that has a 5" bowl.

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16 years 11 months ago #8593 by SJ
Replied by SJ on topic Carb Cracked
You might try JB Weld a two part material in a tube that most hardware stores sell & I,d get the 24 hour drying time type rather than the quick set. You mix the two materials 50-50 & mix them well & apply it then. There is good instructions on the packet. Even Wal-Mart sells it too.Surface where you apply the mix needs to be cleaned well & sanded lightly to get good bare metal.

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16 years 11 months ago #8598 by ccjersey
Replied by ccjersey on topic Clean it and
Silver solder it. Just make sure to remove anything that will be damaged from the heat (gaskets, O-rings etc)

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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16 years 11 months ago #8602 by AJ.
Replied by AJ. on topic Carb
I too would opt for the silver solder with one of those micro flame torches like a jeweller uses,have a look at the carburetor offered on ebay to see if its the same as yours,it says its a Kingston L-3-L
AJ
cgi.ebay.com/ANTIQUE-KINGSTON-L-3-L-CARB...Z58180QQcmdZViewItem

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16 years 11 months ago #8603 by 8C 361
Another vote for JB. If you can vee out the crack, so much the better.

Tom

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16 years 11 months ago #8604 by rustrunner
Thanks for the comments, pictures follow.

Was considering JB Weld or Quick Weld. Thought that heat may make the crack worse, but with the a very small heat source and silver S it could work well without additional damage.

Thanks to all.
Attachments:

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16 years 11 months ago #8605 by rustrunner
AJ

I believe that the L3L that you referred to is smaller than this L3??????? There were a lot of L3's made in a lot of different sizes.

Thanks

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16 years 11 months ago #8607 by AJ.
Replied by AJ. on topic Crack
If that's the part that's cracked in the last picture it does not look like brass but metal,it even looks like it got rust on it,if its metal I would braze it with a low heat.if it is brass I would still opt for to solder.
AJ

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16 years 11 months ago #8608 by rustrunner
AJ

Is brass, just crud where we were running it - have not cleaned it up yet.

If JB Weld or Quick Weld will work, I may use that fix for now, since it needs to be at a show Aug 22-26. After that it will be going back in the barn, and then do your SS fix over the winter.

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16 years 11 months ago #8661 by 7upuller
Replied by 7upuller on topic Carb
I had a cracked carb that was leaking bad. It was the fuel bowl on my diesel 35 pony. I used a product called Marine Tech. It is two part compound that can be spread like butter. Spread the inside of the bowl with a plastic spoon.
The stuff works great.

Also used it on the water jackets on the pony block to a RD-4, That was a successful project also.-Glen

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