Another thing you might check the trans and final drives to make sure they are not grossly overfull sometimes you get water down thru shifting boot and raises trans oil lever

I will plug it and flush it when it warms up some .I have oiled the three cups but i only put 3 or 4 drops in each one. would that be enough to get on the drum i have to spray break cleaner on it if i want to run it.

The OM states that the steering clutch oil cups should be filled every 10 operating hours with engine oil. The flywheel clutch shift collar oil cup is to be filled ever 20 operating hours with transmission oil. If frequent clutch operation then 10 hours.

Sounds like the drains are plugged....

I Will check to make sure drain holes are not plugged.I will let you guys know what i find out. Thanks for all the help.

I had a lot of oil on a brake band in my D2. Turned out that a new seal installed by the Cat shop had a hole through the steel backing where National had stamped their part number on it. Very odd.

Point is, if the seal in the bevel gear case is not up to snuff, the gear oil will just pour out onto the brake. Not a big stream, but it will just keep coming and keep that band wet all the time.

I replaced the seal (Cat put up the parts) and boiled the band in steam cleaner soap and saved the lining.

Jack

What does it take to change the bevel gear seals,Any special tools needed. Thanks

That's a pretty big job....requires removal of the bevel gear shaft and just about everything on it. I'd try and live with the leak until steering clutch replacement time then do it all at once. Requires hydraulic press work, bearing adjustment with big spanner wrench, dial indicator for setting gear backlash and assorted usual hand tools.

Another source of possible leakage not mentioned so far is seal under the "dog house"/cover over the bevel gear.

Could i get a little more info on the seal under the dog house/cover over the bevel gear? thanks

Is it really that tough on a D4? On the D2 I just dug the bad seal out with sheet metal screws and a nail bar, as I recall, and drove the new one in with an open driver over the shaft--something I cobbled up from a piece of pipe. I didn't go into the bevel gears at all. In the page shown above, it looks like the same sort of setup, but I havn't worked on a D4 drive, don't really know.

Of course I had to pull the final drive and that's no small job.

Jack

Dont worry about the seal they all leak a little ater time it is about imposable for oil to get on band from leak on either side unless its overfull and squirting in. Where the bolts hold the drom to flange is lower then the brake band and should just drip of bottom. The oil level on both sides is much lower then the shafts and only gets carried up by the gears. the only way to get the band wet oil or water has to be building up in the bottom.