If you are looking for Cat instruction verification......the D6B service manual states:
"When installing the cylinder liner always use new rubber seals. Coat the rubber seals with liquid soap to ease installation."

Very good post and lots of good information, I have learned a lot. Thanks.
I do have a question as to the cleaning of the block and cylinder head. Is there a reason that you did not "hot tank" the head and block? Makes them easier to find cracks, especially in the head. I personally hot tank the block and head when I go this far into a rebuild. It gets the rust and dirt out of the water jacket and the oil galleys so you don't give the new bearings a blast of dirty oil or what ever is hiding in them first thing.
Thanks again for an excellent post.
Frank

I have had as many different recommendations for sleeve slickum as there were mechanics I have talked to. They have recommended everything from Castor Oil (Really!) to crankcase oil to dishwashing soap. In hindsight, I wish I could have laid my hands on some tire soap, but even then nobody would come forward with a guanantee that it wouldn't eventually react with the metal. It is pretty caustic stuff as soap goes. They went in. I really have no reason to assume that there was a risk of shearing the rings. Everyone seems agreed that the modern rubber now used is OK in oil. I will test run this unit on straight water as the remote radiator and piping is going to take about 10 gallons more than a stock D2. If there is a failure, I can fix it but I sure don't want to.

Timbo1946, I guess you are saying that you push the pistons all the way through the bore far enough to ring them on top? I wasn't sure they would go up that high. How do you block them up while you ring them? And yes, you have to put forth a little extra when you are dealing with real weight.

O.M. and ccjersey, next time I will use soap of some kind. I just know I won't be finding it around Hood River. Wish you'd put a little more of the fear of failure into me first!

Frank, I didn't hot tank the block because there isn't a local tank big enough to take it. The local shops are all using the jet spray machines--a dishwasher on steroids really--and these just don't really fit. I steam clean the daylights out of it, blow out all the oil passages, every nook and cranny. Takes about three times over to get all the spots you will invariably miss. It's about as good but no commercial shop will do it anymore because of the mess, considered toxic waste by DEQ. They tend to ignore a farmer cleaning his own equipment; it's very small scale. I just steamed the head also while I was at it, and the timing case, and the pan, and the pump, and some other stuff laying around waiting for a fix; I got plumb carried away there for a bit.

Thanks, all for your comments, and to anybody else for just looking in. Seems my supplier went on vacation and my order for cam shaft bearings was still unsent when he got back. I can't go another inch on this until I get the cam lined out, so bear with me for a few days while I work on my motorcycle or something.

Jack

Jack,
The pistons will extend far enough through the bore (about 1/4 inch) beyond the last ring. I had the block on its side so the pistons and rods for the most part stayed in place. Dad (turned 81 on mothers day) made sure they didn't move when I installed the rings. Sure makes it nice to have an extra pair of hands avalible. He can't do the heavy work, but spends all day reading the book, and having a plan together so when I have an hour or so we get things done. Installed Oil pump and pan last night. Have to get or make more gaskets to keep going. Great post! Tim

I had mentioned before at the dealer we used the white Lubra-Plate to put on the liner seals and lower block area where they seat in and I did for the 36 years I worked at the dealer and they did before and I,ve been retired for nearly 17 yrs. now and as far as I know they use it yet. It looks almost like lard and is pure white.The small can I have had around for years says it,s # 105 but not sure if that,s the correct number for the one to use but the automotive store should know if you ask for the white stuff that looks like lard and pure white.On the liner seals don,t put oil on with it but just the Lubra Plate but on bearings and bushings you can squirt a little oil on with it.

The lubriplate grease I used was more like a gear oil, outboard lower unit grease maybe and slick as greased glass. I didn't have enough to really slather it on, sought to stretch it a little by oiling over it so it would be real "wet" when the seals went in. I guess I'll wait and see how it worked.

The Lubriplate gun grease that I have seen, never used, was a sort of cream colored stuff. I don't believe I've ever seen Lubriplate that looked like lard. I believe Lubriplate is all basically graphite grease with various additive packages. It's good stuff.

Jack, another thing the Lubra-Plate looks like is Noxzema skin salve and it is a pure white color like the salve. If I get over to the shop I,ll get the # of it as I,m not sure if the #105 is the right # for the white type of it but I,m sure where they sell the Lubra-Plate products would know.This is off the subject but another good use of the Noxzema is it,s great to releave the pain and swelling of Hemorrhoids (piles) as I use it when needed and relieves them in a short time.A nurse at one of my Dr. offices recommended it years ago and I,ve always used it since and I get the results real soon when I put it on.

Hey SJ & Jack, the number is 105. Had to buy a new tube last fall, I was putting main and rod bearing in the lower end of my Cummins engine and that is what they spec for assembly, not motor oil. My old tube only lasted about 20 years, so I went to the local NAPA and told them I was looking for Lubriplate, got a blank stare. Told them it was a white lithium grease, got another blank stare. They said "we have a motor assembly grease" so I said let's look at it. They brought out a large tube that said "Lubriplate" and "White Lithium Grease" and then said motor assembly grease. Guess the new guys still don't have a clue as to tried and true old time products.

George

Thanks Geo. for giving us the correct number as I had an old Lubra_Plate can in my basement that had the #105 on it so I thought it was the right # but wasn,t sure as It,s been a long time since I bought any. It is great stuff and as I stated before we used it at the Cat dealer for ever and swore by it for all assembling and using on the liner seals and lower block area where they seat into.

Lubriplate products are still around but some of the designation numbers have changed over the years. Here is the blurb on "105" assembly lube:
www.lubriplate.com/products/greases/no-1...assembly-grease.html