What version of the service manual do you have?
Pump replacement and lifter setting is shown in the s/n 66A3266-up version but not in the 66A1-up version.
Pumps are removed by unbolting the clamps and tilting as you lift to uncouple the plunger from the yoke. Prevent the plunger from coming out of the barrel. Installation is reverse using new pump to housing seals. The gear quadrants have a mark on them to align with the marks on the rack.
Lifter height check requires a depth micrometer. (Some use a dial caliper). Be sure to clean housing flange to get accurate measurement. Cat suggests special tools for adjusting lifters but standard tools can be used to hold the yoke while adjusting the nut.
Correct lifter height is 2.0899 +/- 0.001" with piston at TDC for each cylinder.

"Old wrote:

What version of the service manual do you have?
Pump replacement and lifter setting is shown in the s/n 66A3266-up version but not in the 66A1-up version.
Pumps are removed by unbolting the clamps and tilting as you lift to uncouple the plunger from the yoke. Prevent the plunger from coming out of the barrel. Installation is reverse using new pump to housing seals. The gear quadrants have a mark on them to align with the marks on the rack.
Lifter height check requires a depth micrometer. (Some use a dial caliper). Be sure to clean housing flange to get accurate measurement. Cat suggests special tools for adjusting lifters but standard tools can be used to hold the yoke while adjusting the nut.
Correct lifter height is 2.0899 +/- 0.001" with piston at TDC for each cylinder.

I have the service manual for D9 Tractor Serial Numbers 66A3266-Up

What info there is is in section 3A-10 Group 250.4 pages 5 & 6.

"Old wrote:

What info there is is in section 3A-10 Group 250.4 pages 5 & 6.

I did read that multiple time but did not see anything with tilting it out... I did remove all 6 (old) and comparing to the new pumps there seems to be a lot of play with how they fit and the suction you hear... #6 was very sloppy as well as #2 and #4... If we recall #6 was the one dripping out but the nozzle could be stuck in the open hence the dribbling... Pretty sad brand new from cat.... But in all fairness it does state in the manual that it needs to be mounted and torqued properly to ensure not leaking from the body and nozzle... Either way pumps when compared to new have excessive play and probably somewhere out there are measurements for the thickness and inside diameters of the pump housing. this would be wear items...

In the manual it also states that they all should be replaced not just one... Group 250.4 page 2. "Worn fuel injection pumps will result in loss of power and hard starting... Ordinarily, if one fuel injection pump on an engine is worn it will be found that all of the injection pumps are worn and need replacing. Failure to replace all of the worn injection pumps may result in erratic and irregular engine operation." Seeing that the original pumps are worn my only concern is the rest of the pump. Like bearings, yokes, springs, check valve, ect... The remaining items of the IP. I did remove the pump as it takes me now less then an hour to remove and I can ensure proper installation and lets be real its more comfortable on a bench then on a track.

Old magnet I see you know your parts... While it is out and I am already in this for some bucks and I am okay with it what are the correct part #s remaining for the IP? I cannot comprehend if the pumps are worn then just replacing the pumps the rest of the pump is also worn... You should not rebuild half the engine ie head without doing the bottom end or vice versa... I know I will get some heat on rebuilding it but I try to do things right the first time... I plan on keeping this machine for a very long time and want it sorted it out... Thanks for listening....

George, the pumps are lubricated with diesel fuel. The main body of the IP is lubricated by the motor oil in the housing. 2 totally different modes of lubrication. Water in fuel + sitting = rust. Rust laps the individual pump surfaces. One was so bad it was stuck. Right? The tolerances in the individual pump surfaces ( plunger to barrel) are so close (.00001) that you should not be able to feel any side movement. Just set your pump lifters to specs at TDC. At same time adjust your intake and exhaust valves. Reinstall the new individual pumps, injectors and lines. You are ready to run. Call me if you hit any snags. John

Hey George, what are you going to do with that beast when you get it running?
Are we going to see some deforestation or mass excavation.? Maybe you're going to plant some sugar cane since you're in Hawaii.
If you're just a hobbyist with a D9 Cat my hat is off to you!!!
Good luck

"d2gary" wrote:

Hey George, what are you going to do with that beast when you get it running?
Are we going to see some deforestation or mass excavation.? Maybe you're going to plant some sugar cane since you're in Hawaii.
If you're just a hobbyist with a D9 Cat my hat is off to you!!!
Good luck

I have a couple machines A D7G with a grappler and winch on the back its a 84 came out of Oregon... I have a parcel of land that I needed a ripper for so I bought a couple machines from the same guy with the D9G. I am a hobbyist but she will be used... Probably the easiest job she will ever have... I am 47 and I blame my mom for not buying me Tonka toys... I love the old machines and more importantly love working on them and operating them... I never ran one and taught myself.. Trust me if this was my business I would starve... But I love it and appreciate all the support...

"oldbeek" wrote:

George, the pumps are lubricated with diesel fuel. The main body of the IP is lubricated by the motor oil in the housing. 2 totally different modes of lubrication. Water in fuel + sitting = rust. Rust laps the individual pump surfaces. One was so bad it was stuck. Right? The tolerances in the individual pump surfaces ( plunger to barrel) are so close (.00001) that you should not be able to feel any side movement. Just set your pump lifters to specs at TDC. At same time adjust your intake and exhaust valves. Reinstall the new individual pumps, injectors and lines. You are ready to run. Call me if you hit any snags. John

John as always thank you... Your a hell of a guy and I appreciate you listening and guiding me....

Your call on how far you want to go with replacing parts in the IP. The check valves you refer to are an integral part of the individual pumps. Check for loose rollers on the lifters, springs could be considered a fatigue wear item. Check bushing wear/fit to the camshaft. Inspect yokes for wear conditions shown in your service manual.
Here's the parts diagram....

While is was digging up valve adjustment info for another poster I was reminded that you would need the same for the D9. It's a simplified version that doesn't require many crankshaft revolutions.

6-cyl, 1,5,3,6,2,4 firing order
Position #1 @ TDC
Adj Intake #1,2,4 Exh #1,3,5
Rotate 360 deg to #6 @ TDC
Adj Intake #3,5,6 Exh #2,4,6