projectanavita wrote:

With the adapter ring, and the threads. Is this used as a wear indicator on the clutch? If so at what point does the clutch need to be replaced using this as an indicator? (like if the ring is -1mm into the outer flywheel is it safe to assume the clutch material is gone ... or something like that)

If I understand correctly and this clutch runs in oil it is nearly impossible to wear out clutch face material.  The teeth that mesh to drive wear out first. On a D6 with the same type clutch had it apart to address oil leaks. The drive teeth where just barely there. The clutch face was the same thickness on the new plate no adjustment was needed. 
 

the clutch has oil in it ... but the flywheel where you adjust the ring is dry. I think you are even suppose to drain that area off once in a while if I recall correctly.

Looking at the previous images posted ( www.acmoc.org/bb/discussion-d72/27947-la...-7u?start=120#238335 ) there is a dividing line between where the oil is (where the clutch break is toward the back of the machine) and the flywheel (where the pump gears are forward)

When I dropped a tool down into the flywheel area (before I added a string) when I pulled it out there was no oil there ... but a clear bath of oil toward the back of the machine just beyond the flywheel compartment.

this is something i was told too always park the machine with the clutch engaged it apparently stops the clutch plates buckling. well i know parking it in gear works as a handbrake.

trainzkid88 wrote:

this is something i was told too always park the machine with the clutch engaged it apparently stops the clutch plates buckling. well i know parking it in gear works as a handbrake.

When I am running the machine to cool it down it is idling in neutral with clutch engaged as per the OM specifications. So when I eventually stop it it says that way ... as well as the (start / run) switch staying in the run position till I restart the machine (after moving to start, and disengaging the clutch) ... 

I wonder if the buckling would be a heat related thing and not an issue if it is "cool" ... but then again, what is "cool" 

i think the reason is the release springs might bend the plates.

New issues to have fun with ... Not sure where to start, and haven't looked at the manuals yet to figure out if it is the pony or something worse

Started the pony today in cold weather (37F) ... ran for maybe 30 seconds then there was an odd noise and ran for 15 seconds more before stopping ... I think it ran out of fuel so I fuel her up and try to restart. Run starting motor 15 seconds, stop 30, 15 seconds, stop 30, then a couple seconds and electric motor stops and struggles ...

It would appear the main flywheel used to manually pull start the pony is seized ... I tried to move it in different states of the starting clutch but nothing .... I can live with a dead pony and simply "upgrade" to a electric start if I have to but it would be nice to know where to start.

I browsed some other pony motor posts but nothing stood out to me yet.

remove the magneto check the condition of the gear it might have done what ours did and broke the teeth off and/or bent the armature. apparently its a common thing.
the crank bushes get worn or the dowels fail allowing to much end float which cuases a harmonic vibration which destroys the magneto gear.

Got a chance to pry the magnito out enough to look at it ... missing about half of the teeth :/ 

Couldn't get it off the machine because of the extra hydraulics making it harder for me to remove the control sheet metal. Will have to do that another time while I figure out my next steps.

yep ours did the same. not shure if i have a good mag gear or if it went with the pony when i sold it.

might be lucky and not damaged the other gears have them crack tested to be safe.