bugger! i have it upside down.
there is a adjuster nut that you turn with a big c hook spanner to set the bearing tension its under a bolt on cover. yes the diagram is clear as mud.
you can see the nut i say needs to be very tight under the outer cover. no the bearing preload tension isnt that high.

there is a lock bolt too

Ok the nut you are talking about is part number 3F1540. The nut that holds the sprocket onto the hub is 3F1537. The sprocket must be pressed on with 25 tons of force. NOT tightened up with the 3F1537 lock nut.

Bearing adjustment is done by tightening the bearing adjusting nut 3F1540 with the 7F9693 spanner with a three foot extension on the handle. Later machines do have a torque setting.

As ctsnowfighter says removing the sprocket from the hub can be a very dangerous enterprise but unless you need to change the sprocket or replace the seal between the sprocket and the housing then you don't need to remove it. There is a video series on youtube of a guy who buys a 955H and has to remove a sprocket. First he uses a jack and chain which ends badly then he heats it up and it fly's off with great velocity barely missing him.

You are a member so the Serviceman's Reference Book is available to you in the library and unlike most of the parts books on there is very legible.

Deas Plant I thank you for helping and rest of you guys. I picked Deas becaus I have already decided be safe than sorry. I now aggravated trying to fab all tools. I am wondering if I can take the whole sprocket assembly off and take to someone that has the tools. I am going to part out soon, but all the parts are present.

Hi, gwoods.
Yes, I believe it is possible to take the whole assembly off and take it to a suitably equipped facility. Just remember to lift with your knees and NOT your back 'coz it'll be HEAVY. Better yet, have some mechanical means of lifting it into/onto a vehicle for transport.

You could take it to your local Cat dealer who WOULD have the appropriate equipment. Then you would only be paying for their time and tools and the parts for them to disassemble and reassemble. No travel time or labor on site.

Just my 0.02.

as deas suggests you local dealer workshop or even any earth moving equipment/track service would have suitable tooling. they would need to borrow the manuals you have though. as they wouldnt have any for gear this old.

if the bellows seal is leaking it might just need the bearing adjustment checked up a little. or do what we did dont worry about it too much a oil leak stops rust and just keep it topped up. 400 bucks for the c hook spanner to do the job buys a fair bit of oil.

I have fabricated a spanner wrench that turns the big nut, that is no problem. I fabricated a three sided box to push away from bale shaft, but just can’t get it to brake loose. I using a porta power with a lot pressure. I believe it was Deas that sent me picture info of a puller being used to remove the bale. If a puller can do that why can’t a porta power do it?

I believe a bearing is down in portion of final drive next to brake. That is where I want to look and see what repair is needed. I will make the decision there to forge on or part out.

Thank you for the advice on safety. All information is deeply appreciated and needed. This final drive attempts to take apart is giving me a challenge. Thanks gwoods

if you cant turn the big cast nut that adjusts the sprocket bearings you might still have the lock and clamp bolts inplace it wont turn till you remove/loosen them