They are thick forest in places. Mainly 10-13 feet tall, big trunks. There are some that are 20-30 feet tall. They have been growing on Ranch for 45-50 years as ranch was leased out. I took it back officially in 2016. Got a contract to clear them last year. I have been using my 240LX Link Belt excavator and it does a great job. But need this dozer to speed up the project alot faster. Thanks for asking!

Thanks Kurt i will definately fill everyone in on new happenings.

Thanks!

Hi, JoeMoad.
The couple that I have seen were welded and plated - inside and outside. The cause apparently was the heavier blade hanging off the nose. I believe that, later in the model run, Cat beefed up the frame rails around that area. I don't have the serial # for that modification.

If yours has the hydraulic ripper pin puller, it doesn't hurt actuate it once in a while. It doesn't need to run the full stroke, just 2 - 3" or so to make sure it is free and then close back in.

I don't know what your thoughts are on decelerating when changing direction but I ALWAYS do.

Just my 0.02.

Here's what you need to clear, but you have to know how to use them.
www.jmwood.com/ROME-206-KG-BLADE-FIT-CAT-D9G-D9H-B-6_i32864557

Thanks again Deas Plant. I have a mechanic checking out the whole machine Monday and i have given him advice to check that bar for cracks. Also the hydraulic pin puller.


Thanks a million!!

Rome K/G

Thanks for the blade info. I have found a real heavy brush rake that fits on the U Blade. I like your idea of the smaller blade with the push bar on top. Thats kinda what i was looking for. (I have seen many types of brush blades, rakes, etc) Since i have been looking for one i found this rake and thought it would be easier to use since it mounts to the blade and tilts back when baclking up. In other words it only works when going forward or pushing so as to not tear up more un needed soil. I will post a pic of it for you decide what you think of it?

ive seen stick rakes that were made so you hang them on. the blade the blade itself sat in a recess in the rake the advantage with that is you can easily remove the rake to do other jobs when not pushing timber. it also gave a wider pass width. and being removable easily is better transport wise(less oversize restrictions)

       

Hey Trainzkid:

Thank you for chipping in on my setup to wipe out the trees. I cant figure how to post pics on this forum. I have a couple real good pics that i wish you could see. It is about 15 ft wide and built stronger than anything i have seen. Holt Cat in SanAntonio built it years ago and i dont think a 20” steel conductor pipe sticking up would phase it, much less the trees i am going after. I was busy doing paperwork and missed your post, sorry for the late reply. Let me know how to post pics from my library on my phone and i will get them on here. Sorry finally figured how to use the editor.

Thanks Again and enjoy your Sunday!!

Joe Moad
Oklahoma

Hi, JoeMoad.
Nope! These are RAKES.

www.gessner.com.au/products/dozer-stick-rakes-tree-spears/

LOL.

But, seriously, a good operator with a normal blade will likely pile up cleared vegetation with less dirt in the heaps than a bad operator with a rake. Even with a rake, most times you can't just push straight to the heap, You need to roll the gathered wood in front of the blade or rake to shake any collected dirt out of it. The more gathered wood in front of the blade or rake, the more it will gouge into the dirt and contaminate the load. Funny things is, bigger logs tend to do this less than lighter trees, saplings and brush 'coz there is more space in the load for the dirt to fall out.

That rake looks like it could do the job but I think you will need to just skim the ground most of the time as those tines are not long enough rake through the ground and still have the dirt fall away.

Just my 0.02.