I'm thinking about buying a non-running D7D 17A project. It's complete, said to have been running (but not running well) about 10 years ago. Owner thinks it's was having fuel issues.  

It has a hydraulic blade, ROPS, electric start, Hyster D7D winch. Engine is a 4 cylinder turbo, but based on the block casting, it appears to be a D7E engine.  

No serial number on the engine, but I'm aware of the possibility of a number at the left rear of the tractor.

This would be my first piece of heavy equipment.  I've been wrenching on muscle cars and trucks on and off for decades.  Also have some diesel experience - Ford 7.3 IDI and PS and a pair of Detroit diesels in a boat decades ago.  Now that I'm retired from the Army, I have more time to take on something challenging like this.  FYI - I certainly realize that it would make more sense to buy something in better condition, but I'm not necessarily after the smartest course of action.

Anyway, back to the D7.  I haven't seen it in person yet; it's 1.5 hours away from me.  Going the day after tomorrow to check it out in person.  Before I buy it, I'd like to get it running, if at all possible.    

Owner said he has an old set of batteries from a D4, but he's not sure if the D7 is 12V or 24V.    

And this is where I could use some help.  I'm familiar with the process of starting a car or truck that hasn't been running in years, but a 65 year old D7 is another situation altogether.  Anyone want to take a stab at the process you'd use and the tools you'd bring?    

I do have a pushbutton starter switch that will hook to the starter solenoid with alligator clips.  I should be able to figure out which terminal is the S terminal on the solenoid.  I'll bring ether, but I'm not a big fan of the stuff.  What about getting fuel to the injectors?  If I bring a 5 gallon can of diesel, can I use an electric fuel pump to get the diesel to the injectors somehow? 

Would the starter be stamped 12V or 24V?  I'm just wondering if I should try to start with the batteries set up 12v or 24v.  I know sending 24v to a 12v starter isn't the best thing for the starter, so maybe go 12v if I'm not sure? 



 


 

Hi, bulletpruf.
It would be a pretty safe bet that this would be a 24 'jolt' system. Maybe get your lunch hooks onna set of fuel filters for it before you go - somebody more knowledgeable - and/or with a better reference library than me - may be able to tell you what filters you would need. Some fresh fuel might not be a bad idea either.

Thank you for your service.

Just my 0.02.

Hi, and Thanks for your Service
Based solely upon pictures -
That D7 is going to need a lot of TLC - I would not expect to take batteries and either and 5 gallons of fuel and have it talking.
There are many items to check before starting - the clutch and attachments must be dis-engaged and free
The Canopy is definately not a ROPS - ROPS must support the entire weight of the machine.
Pictures do not show the exhaust side of turbo, do show open air cleaner, no hood, I would certainly recommend checking obstructions, debris in turbo
Be sure to check for breakage of the coolant systems. (water pump, radiator, block, etc) Look for damage to the radiator and oil cooler.
Water in Oil, etc. Ensure the fluids in the Fuel tank are not contaminated. Water does not agree with those systems.
Check the final drive and transmission oil levels and conditions.
Assess the condition of the idlers, sprockets, tracks - pins/bushings. (from pictures, track plates show grousers have been built up, pads show lot of wear, which could indicate rails-pins-bushings are worn out too)

RESCUE? Just takes TIME and $$$$$$
What do you plan to do with it, work, show, restore?
Good Luck

yes it depends what you want. if it for just a show piece you can have 3 parts worn out track gear it only has to move on and off the low loader.

things to take if you want to revive her
fresh oil for the engine and trans (note some of these old girls have to be running to get a proper reading on the dipstick and read high when not running) a drum of each is a good idea.a 15w40 mineral oil is perfect for the engine.
fresh fuel and fuel filters. these generally will gravity bleed to the filters. they do have a lift pump to push fuel to the injection pump. a bucket to drain off some fuel from the tank and check for water contamination. there is a drain bung on the tank.
a decent hand torch
a borescope is handy if you have one to check the intake for debris if the piping is intact and the filter is intact then it shouldn't have a problem.
and dont forget a can of wasp spray they love yellow equipment it excites them.

I believe that 7 to be a wore out machine!  I would pass.      Don

Deas wrote:

Hi, bulletpruf.
It would be a pretty safe bet that this would be a 24 'jolt' system. Maybe get your lunch hooks onna set of fuel filters for it before you go - somebody more knowledgeable - and/or with a better reference library than me - may be able to tell you what filters you would need. Some fresh fuel might not be a bad idea either.

Thank you for your service.

Just my 0.02.

 

Sounds good, thanks for the input!

Scott

ctsnowfighter wrote:

Hi, and Thanks for your Service
Based solely upon pictures -
That D7 is going to need a lot of TLC - I would not expect to take batteries and either and 5 gallons of fuel and have it talking.
There are many items to check before starting - the clutch and attachments must be dis-engaged and free
The Canopy is definately not a ROPS - ROPS must support the entire weight of the machine.
Pictures do not show the exhaust side of turbo, do show open air cleaner, no hood, I would certainly recommend checking obstructions, debris in turbo
Be sure to check for breakage of the coolant systems. (water pump, radiator, block, etc) Look for damage to the radiator and oil cooler.
Water in Oil, etc. Ensure the fluids in the Fuel tank are not contaminated. Water does not agree with those systems.
Check the final drive and transmission oil levels and conditions.
Assess the condition of the idlers, sprockets, tracks - pins/bushings. (from pictures, track plates show grousers have been built up, pads show lot of wear, which could indicate rails-pins-bushings are worn out too)

RESCUE? Just takes TIME and $$$$$$
What do you plan to do with it, work, show, restore?
Good Luck
 

Thanks for the info on the ROPS.

I'm definitely worried about moisture and debris getting in the intake and exhaust.  I'll check both.

I'll check the fluids and coolant system before we get started.

I'm not terribly familiar with assessing the undercarriage; my experience with tracked vehicles at this point is limited to the M113 and M2 Bradley in the Army, but I wasn't a mechanic.

What do I plan to do with it?  Good question!  I certainly don't NEED a D7, but I'd really enjoy rescuing this.  Having said that, I suspect what I will do is see if we can get it started, and help the owner figure out exactly what he has and what's wrong with it so he can sell it to someone else.  I'm probably better off with a D6 (50's vintage - it's what my great uncle ran until a few days before he died at age 90) or a vintage D3 (50's? vintage?) that I could move around with my F350.

trainzkid88 wrote:

yes it depends what you want. if it for just a show piece you can have 3 parts worn out track gear it only has to move on and off the low loader.

things to take if you want to revive her
fresh oil for the engine and trans (note some of these old girls have to be running to get a proper reading on the dipstick and read high when not running) a drum of each is a good idea.a 15w40 mineral oil is perfect for the engine.
fresh fuel and fuel filters. these generally will gravity bleed to the filters. they do have a lift pump to push fuel to the injection pump. a bucket to drain off some fuel from the tank and check for water contamination. there is a drain bung on the tank.
a decent hand torch
a borescope is handy if you have one to check the intake for debris if the piping is intact and the filter is intact then it shouldn't have a problem.
and dont forget a can of wasp spray they love yellow equipment it excites them.

Good point on the wasp spray; I'll bring a few cans.

I do have a borescope; I'll bring one of those, too.

Good info on the filters.

I'll bring a torch, but curious as to why you think I need one - help free up stuck bolts?

Thanks!

Scott

If you get it running be very careful moving it around the track on the right if sitting in the machine is very loose the drive sprocket on the bottom is not even touching the rails! 

The right side track looks like there could be lot of trouble hiding there. At the least the track adjuster needs help. Look the bushings over to assess the track condition, the closer to round the better. If the bushings are warn thru to the pin time to spend big money.

The diesel fuel pre low sulfur lasted almost forever, the new fuel ............................................not so much. Not in my machines so, just hear say more or less. But with other brands of farm equipment forums, the talk is lots of very stuck fuel pumps with the new clean fuel.

I fired a Cat D6 that sat in a barn for 30 years, other than rust in tank the old 1980's fuel ran fine. So you can get lucky. But it was old 1980's fuel. But I would recommend you use the search function on here and look at posts on stuck fuel racks, and freeing them up.

Not real familiar with the D7, but believe that will be a 17A serial number and not a D7 E. The same basic engine block, but not fully interchangeable parts.
I like to see old iron saved, but this one could more expensive than average. Talk to the owner and see what you can discover. If old age and fiscal disabilities of the owner figures in the machine sitting, I would be less afraid. But the open air cleaner, hood off, and loss track are all warning signs, of BE VERY CAREFULL.