a straight blade has no angle adjustment to roll the blade forward or back. thus changing the "bite" of the cutting edge. angle blades have a tilt ram or a turnbuckle on the older machines

Kid wrong again. Tilt blades are tilted to change the blades cutting edge angle in relation to the tracks. Used for cutting roads in on hillsides or changing the angle of an existing surface. You usually only need to change one side hence why a lot of hydraulic tilt blades only have a cylinder on one side. Basically it twists the blade and forces it out of level with the base of the machine.
Angle blade refers to changing the blade in relation to the tractor to direct the material one side or the other depending on the angle direction.
A straight blade is usually fixed and cannot be angled. Some can be tilted,.some can't Straight blades have less linkages to wear out and are usually heavier duty. Straight blades do not have a "C" frame.
Most blades will have a curvature in them to roll the material so the machine can push more material..

Phil C, it is the greatest thing when you see the dirt coming up over the top edge of the blade no matter what size or age machine it is !

Hi, hdokes.
A li'l bitta history - the VERY early dozer blades were simply flat plates mounted in front of the tractor. It didn't take long at all for some smart people to 'figger' out that a vertical curve in the blade face would help it to both dig better and carry more material. It didn't take the less smart people long to catch on and copy the smarter ones.

 

ALL the early dozer blades were fixed straight across the front of the tractor. I suspect that some bright spark watched an angled blade on a pull grader at work and 'figgered' out that it might be a good idea to have a similar arrangement in a dozer blade and so invented the angling dozer blade like yours.

About the same time, give or take, somebody had the bright idea that it might be useful to be able to TILT the blade lower on one side to make it easier to cut ditches or pioneer roads on hill sides and invented the tilt brace to achieve this desired result.. Tilt braces also served another purpose in that, IF you had them on BOTH sides fo the blade, you could tip the blade forward for better digging or back for better carrying capacity.

Whether angled or straight, an angling blade can be titled to one side or the other by adjusting tilt braces. If the blade linkages have little wear, it will need both braces adjusted in opposite directions to get much tilt. If the linkages are worn, you can get some reasonable/workable tilt by adjusting one brace only but that places more load on one brace than the other.

On a STRAIGHT blade like seiscat's, you only need to adjust one brace to TILT the blade but BOTH braces in the same direction to tip the blade forward or back to adjust the angle of the cutting edge for better cutting or to roll the blade back for better carrying capacity. Angle blades do not have much scope for tipping the blade back or forward when new due to having the fixed center angling pivot pin but usually 'gain' some scope for that as they wear. The FIRST bulldozer:

To clarify, "Cutting angle" is usually a reference to the 'tip' forward or back of the blade face. 'Tilt' usually refers to having one side of the blade lower or higher than the other. "Angle" usually refers to the blade being angled across the line of travel to drift the material to one side or the other.

A 2-way blade, a VERY rare beast these days, would only have up-n-down adjustment. A 4-way blade has up-n-down and side-to-side TILT adjustment. A 6-way blade has up-n-down, tilt and angle adjustment - - - NONE of which are available on the image above.

The above 'ranting' should make it about as clear as mud for you.

Although a little more 'long-winded', I hope this makes things a little more clear for you than trainzkid88's earlier post.

Just my 0.02.

other than hydraulic raise and lower our machine is all manual and you can only drop the corner of the blade via a toothed rack and clamp bolt system or pivot the blade so it pushes to the left or right side by moving the blade arm forward or back along the c frame itself. not even sure ours is a cat blade all the tags are missing off the blade. we know its a type44 single circuit hydro control ours was originally a ag crawler.

Hi, trainzkid88.
Sounds like you have 6-way blade with powered raise and lower and the angle and tilt functions being manual - not uncommon with earlier blades.

If you post a couple of photos of your blade, I suspect that some people on this BB will manage to ID it for you.

Just my 0.02.

Thanks a bunch guys. I now have a clear understanding of the difference between straight and angled. And yes.... that mine is indeed an angled blade. I honestly can't wait to have to use that feature as I am told by the previous owner that it is particularly easy to adjust on this D6B. At the moment still using it for clearing vs grading but looking forward to that time. I'm thinking it would be advantageous to create a brush guard to affix to the top of the blade. I get a lot of debris coming up over the blade when creating brush piles.

Hi, hdokes.
If you're gonna build a brush guard to stop 'stuff' coming over the top of the blade, it is a good idea to have it raked forward at about the same angle as the top of the blade moldboard and 'tissue' paper is NOT a recommended construction material. It is also not a bad idea to have the middle section in front of the radiator sold plated - I'm gonna leave you to 'figger' out why. LOL.

Just my 0.02.

we have a stick rake for ours that was farmer made from old tram line and heavy section rhs steel it was originally made to hang on a tractor 3 point linkage and while it did fit our ford 4000 it knew it was there and it was a good way to snap a tractor so we modified it to be a hang on stick rake and made a couple of arms to hang it on the blade. you could chain it to a tree and drop the blade and back away from it.

yes we covered the upper half with woven wire-mesh that cam from a gravel screening plant that was made with 3/16 wire woven into 3/4 grid pattern that stopped a lot of sticks and debris we also welded some bits of medium tensile round bar onto the tynes to stop it digging so much and they acted as a foot and wear bar

Here's a sample of what can be built to solve the blade over-ride problem. That is 1/2 inch wall 4 inch square tubing and covered with 1/2 plate. The tractor was my D6D equipped with a 6A blade and twin tilt cylinders.
Craig