Takes special tool (splined bolt) #5F8353 to remove combustion chambers.

Re-torque should be done after engine cools following one good work out at operating temperature. You state gaskets looked fine, I'm assuming you men head gasket. You stated earlier you were getting water in the cylinder, is that the case? Need to check out pre-com seals and check for pin hole as CC mentioned next.

Driggers, belt driven pump should be a D330 4.5"bore engine. Pressed steel valve cover should be a D330C 4.75" bore engine( very similar to 3304).
The aluminium valve cover is held on by 4 long 3/8" bolts in the center, the pressed steel one is held on by many short 5/16" bolts in the outside flange.
Later Bob

D330 Normally Aspirated engine picture.

The serial # quoted indicates a '67 build, the same year the "c" series engines appeared...so it may well be.

With the cylinder head off, go measure the bore...then you'll know for sure.

"Old wrote:

With the cylinder head off, go measure the bore...then you'll know for sure.

OK guys, thanks for the help, I decided to take the head to the head machine shop, they magnufluxed it and it has a crack running all the way right thru the middle of all the pre-combustion chambers. the cylider where the water was coming out you could see the crack by eye.
So, $1100.00 they are gonna completly rebuild the head including fixing the cracks, new combustion chambers, injectors, valves guides and so on. This was a virgin head, so they said it makes it better since they cut out all the areas that are cracked, fill in then machine the head. only problem, it takes two weeks, LOL
Clint

Ouch!

I think I would find another one and start over.

Have you found the cause of the heating that caused the cracking,bit of a waste of time and money to put a head back on and not have found the reason,while waiting for the head I would remove the radiator,take off the tanks to see if the tubes are nice and clean,if not "rod" them and put the pressure washer on each one, I'v had machines come to my place with heating problmes and been told that the rads had been repaired at rad shops only to find when the tanks were removed that too many tubes had been blocked off rather than the core replace, few tubes don't matter but there is a limit,you should also check the liner protrusion, if you have a low liner hot compression will leak into the coolant from the cylinder and cause overheating very quickly,you may need someone that has experience to check the liner protrusion for you,if you have a low one the liner will have to be removed and the seat recut.there has to be a reason for the heating so you need to find it before you put the head back.
AJ

I was just assuming that there was an overheat scenario involved with the water pump failure. I don't think I would reuse that head.....a crack across all the pre-com chamber cavities is pretty severe. Yes, there are those that claim they can repair em but will they guarantee the work for longer than a tail light warranty?? There should be plenty of D330's around to chose from as they were not one of Cat's finest engines.

Welding shops that repair cracked heads are few & far between esp. good ones but from the dealer we used to send all our heads to a place in Brooklyn NY & he even came & picked them up & over the years he did probably 100s or more heads for us & we never had one that didn,t hold up and no matter how bad they were you couldn,t tell hardly where they were fixed.We also sent bad blocks to him & he did a good job on them too.To find a good shop could be a challenge & one close by so maybe a used head would be the way to go.Cat has an exchange head program but probably is quite expensive.