those 2 dowels are fun to get out when sheared off like that. they are not very deep so drill them, then heat and easy out them.

thansk

Non-existant user wrote:

Poor mans track alignment:

Swap sides with bronze outer bushing housings, Left to Right, Right to Left.

Take steel bushings out of diagonal trackframe brace and rotate back bushing to front, front to back.

If wear in diagonal brace bushings is excessive, Put 'best' bushing in the front and 'worst' bushing in rear with apropiate size shim stock under the rear cap bushing and bolt back to track frame, then remove cap and Grind the over hanging excess off and put it Back on. Track frames should line up then.

Yes, I've done this before. Ducks and runs for cover before the stuff starts flying.

Well I appreciate that, I usually try to poor man things within limits.....and the way that pry bar was bending I was wanting to run......

"Old wrote:

The two little dowel pins on the end anchor the lock that holds the shaft end nut.

Thanks again OM, so I don't really need to be concerned that the one is broken? I guess I will see about getting it out, I drilled the center and burned one of the broken 5/8 bolts that holds the housing down, 1 more of them to go, plus the one that needs oversizing.

Thanks to all you guys for the help, it is much appreciated!

In poor mans fashion, probably not, but it's not the sort of thing I could live with:D

It's a small point but I change all my 5/8 housing mounting bolts to known quality grade 8 flange head bolts with either no lock washers or 17-7 PH s.s. belleville disc springs (washers). They don't get loose again.

"Old wrote:

It's a small point but I change all my 5/8 housing mounting bolts to known quality grade 8 flange head bolts with either no lock washers or 17-7 PH s.s. belleville disc springs (washers). They don't get loose again.

After I go through the trouble of repairing/rebuilding something like this I normally use grade 8 bolts. They don't cost that much more.

OM, what do you think about the bearing adjusting nut. I wasn't kidding when I said I was bending that pry bar to the point I was getting worried about it. Shouldn't the nut have given?

I realize that I didn't have a solid pull on it being the hub and trackframe aren't together so it was a little spongy, but man I had a bind on it and it never even winked at me.....

Key word was "flanged type" on the grade 8 bolts. Type commonly seen on truck frames (larger bearing area).
Those adjuster nuts can be a bear to unstick. It doesn't help that the nut is recessed so that you can't get a straight shot with the tracks on. Are yours off?
Worst ones is tracks off, a b....ig cheater, couple beefy guys and some heat.

"Old wrote:

Key word was "flanged type" on the grade 8 bolts. Type commonly seen on truck frames (larger bearing area).
Those adjuster nuts can be a bear to unstick. It doesn't help that the nut is recessed so that you can't get a straight shot with the tracks on. Are yours off?
Worst ones is tracks off, a b....ig cheater, couple beefy guys and some heat.

I think I know what your talking about on the bolts. What about a regular grade 8 with a grade 8 washer under it?

No my track aren't off..........yet

Thanks again - dd

Regular Gr. 8 bolt and washer would duplicate original.

I found that spring washers were relatively useless in the track frame area, particularly when working on rock. The hammering and vibration through the track frame shatters spring washers, and then you have a loose bolt.

I found that Cat bolts, which are Grade 8 as standard, and which have higher heads than standard SAE Grade 8 specs call for, are the best thing to use where there is corrosion, hammering and vibration.
However, the flanged type bolts are a good idea in track frames. The flange speads the loading, and there is no chance of washer breakage and failure.

Where spring washers failed on my machines, I used the Cat hardened washers, and just torque the bolts up normally. The stretch that normal torqueing does to bolt shanks is enough to keep them tight.
Generally, the biggest problem with bolts in track frames, is getting them out, after they've been there for a while.
The main period you have to watch for loose bolts, is for a couple of weeks after re-assembly, before they settle in. After this period, they seem to settle in and stay tight.

OM, King, Ozdozer.......

I have all the broken bolts repaired and the housing bolted back down on the frame. BTW, everything lined back up like it's supposed to....

But, I haven't got the bearing adjusting nut to move yet.....

I have the lock out of it, the clamp bolt loosened off, have a 3 ft long pry bar hooked in one of the nut teeth, with about 10 ft of pipe on the end of it levering against the track frame and it still won't even hint at turning.

Tried some heat, don't know how much to give it with the seal on the inside of it, still won't move.

Any ideas from anybody??

The tool for the job is the heavy duty OTC adjustable spanner wrench which sorta picks up two teeth in a pinch and turn mode. If your system is not ridged enough it won't cut it. For sure the tracks will need to be split to get on it.
I know this is a dumb question but are you aware that tighten is counter clockwise rotation. If you are unfamiliar with the spanner wrench let me know and I will post pic.