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d6d lgp or d7e which is better

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17 years 1 month ago #6747 by dancat
im looking to buy a dozer, i have two found im interested in a d6d lgp and a low horse d7e. the d6d is 30,000 and the d7e is 10,000 both in about the same condition, which would a better choice for the public and for working on my own place?

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17 years 1 month ago #6761 by Old Magnet
Need to know what series units you are comparing. Low hp D7E might be a 17A or 47A/48A machine w/D339 or D339T (fairly old machine) and there are lot of D6D LGP machines (later models)

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17 years 1 month ago #6772 by catskinner
Replied by catskinner on topic ozer
What are you going to be doing with the dozer. Large amounts of dirt to move or just play around with. D7 would be best but if your going to be cleaning out wet ponds or working in wet areas, LGP would be better. Depends on what you are going to be using it for. catskinner

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17 years 1 month ago #6773 by Old Magnet
Hi Catskinner.......your so right:D
Do have to retract the 17A model in my post, thats actually a D7D model:o

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17 years 1 month ago #6817 by dancat
so the d7e 48a poershift will out work the d6dlgpas far as pushing dirt? also is there any reason the 6d6lgp are cheaper than the regular d6d,does the 36' tracks cause more trans and final problem thanks for the the reply all ive ever ran are the d73t and 17a which i think are both great machines, dont like the 3t as well because of the dry clutch, well mainly the links i keep knockin out about ever 150 to 200 hours. does any on here have much experience with a d6dlgp?any help or thinks to be sure to check out before buying it would be great.

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17 years 1 month ago #6820 by edb
Replied by edb on topic D7 engine alignment method
Hi dancat,
this scan from the D7 Service Manual should help you overcome the link failure problems you are encountering.
Your unit could have a bent frame or failed front engine mount bearing at the front crossmember to timing case area, broken rear engine mounts or just flogged out and/or missing shims.
Another cause could be failed bearings supporting the transmission/clutch shaft, allowing misalignment.
Anyway some things for you to check to start with.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

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17 years 1 month ago #6821 by edb
Replied by edb on topic D7 engine alignment try 2
maybe this time it will take the bait.
Eddie B.

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17 years 1 month ago #6842 by Old Magnet
Sorry, can't help you with the LGP unit operation (too new for me). These are 83 inch gage machines with 3306T engines with bare weight tractor being 38,300 lbs. These units were produced up into the 90's and appears that only the 06X series was produced in the USA. The extra wide grousers are exceptionally hard on undercarriage components. Don't know why the LGP units would be cheaper other than the undercarriage concerns and probably less demand then regular units.

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17 years 1 month ago #6844 by SJ
Replied by SJ on topic Clutch
Any time a dry clutch on one of them is out that the engine should be checked & aligned properly if needed to the in put shaft to the transmission with a dial indicator & then you won,t have a link problem.As was mentioned that there are shims under the front & rear engine supports to correct the alignment so whatever other procedures are needed to correct it will have to be dealt with if the frame or whatever is damaged as was mentioned. Sometimes a front motor support can get beat out so that,s another job to correct.

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17 years 1 month ago #6868 by dancat
thank you all for the help and diagrams,i will check the engine mounts and alinment.i have a 17a with a good motor and oil clutch is it possible to put it in the 3t, and keep the 3t trans or will i have to change trans and all? my old 3t is burning over a gallon an hour of oil,i think it might be cheaper just to put the 17a motor in it if its possible than to overhaul the 3t although the 3t doesnt burn as much diesel as the 17a anyone know how much difference there is between the two?

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