acmoc

ACMOC Membership Benefits

  • FREE quarterly magazine filled with content about antique Caterpillar machines
  • FREE classified listings
  • ACMOC store discounts and specials
  • Full Bulletin Board Access
    • Marketplace (For Sale/Wanted)
    • Technical Library
    • Post attachments

$44 /year ELECTRONIC

$60 /year USA

$77 /year International

D35 Brass ID plates on Ebay

More
More
10 years 11 months ago #86729 by holt 2 ton
Hi I can not contact the seller of this item on ebay, it would appear he doesn't post over sea's.
Does anyone have a contact on this items owner
Thanks, regards Mark

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
10 years 11 months ago #86730 by Wombat
Replied by Wombat on topic D35 Brass ID plates on Ebay
Hi Mark,

Have sent you a Private message.

Neil

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
10 years 11 months ago #86762 by STEPHEN
Replied by STEPHEN on topic D35 Brass ID plates on Ebay
We need to teach him how to remove the plate without beating them up

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
10 years 11 months ago #86796 by 60steve
Replied by 60steve on topic Brass tags
How do you take them off without damaging them?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
10 years 11 months ago #86829 by STEPHEN
Replied by STEPHEN on topic D35 Brass ID plates on Ebay

How do you take them off without damaging them?


1) Does the plate need to be removed in place or at all? i.e if it is on the cover plate of the fuel injection housing, just remove the cap screws to start. or leave the cover and plate intact.
2) If the plate is on sheet metal such as a seat back, the drive screws shank usually can be found sticking out a little. A sharp rap with a hammer, a further nudge with a center or prick punch, and final removal with a small pin punch, or vise grips on the head.
3) If you have a Bridgeport mill, you can drive out blind drive screws from radiator plates by drilling a small depression in a bit of metal to locate the head, and then drilling the casting from the reverse side until the end of the fastener is found. Then drive out screw as you like.
4) If you are haunting the scrapyard as I do, and time is of the essence, sharpen your cold chisel to rap around the head of the rivet so it will not slide off. The included angle of the chisel can be asymmetric to the center-line of the chisel to make the chisel lie closer to the plate. Please use a thin shim between the chisel and the plate. Leather,teflon or nylon sheet come to mind and can be had at your local gasket maker, or try McMaster.com. Then limit your hammer blows so when the shank breaks it will not carry away the corner of the plate. Or try placing the chisel outside of the plate corner and drive toward the center.
5) The drill jig--Get a 1 x 3/16 x 6 flat bar, drill a suitable hole 1/2" from the end and centered. Countersink the hole to locate the screw head. Hold jig firmly onto screw-head and drill center of head with a new split-point drill deep enough to weaken the head and reduce the need for excessive hammering
I have used every suggestion listed with good results, the only trick is to use the most appropriate method or combination of methods
It is madness to just walk up and start banging away with a hammer and chisel and wonder why the end result is always the same.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.151 seconds
Go to top