Mike wrote:

I think there are rubber stops that set the forward travel of the steering clutch levers, you might be missing one on that side? Check out the brilliant D2 repair video's that "Sasquatch" has shared on youtube, I think there are links to them through this board, I'm sure he will have discussed them in one of his video's.
 

Sasquatch wrote:

To adjust the positions of the steering levers you turn the acorn nuts that are on the other ends of the actuators in that compartment. You’ll have to remove the cotter pin first, but as you turn the acorn nut in the steering lever will travel forward. Turn the acorn nut out and the steering lever will travel back. 👍

neil wrote:

Hi Mark, are you planning to refurbish that spare starting engine? If so, one thing I did that you might be interested in is fitting crank thrust washers. The stock implementation relies on the main bearings being set in place to control axial float (015 or whatever it is). It's not a robust solution because the amount of surface area on the ends of the bearings is pretty small, but mostly because the main bearings are located axially by small dowels, which are meant to be a press-fit into the bearings. These dowels serve dual duty as oil supply conduits to the bearings. Another fellow on here turned down the rear inner surface of the block, the inner surface of the flywheel-end cover, and the crank cheeks, in order to fit 1/8 to 1/4 thick oilite thrust washers, sized to maintain the 015 float. The OEM bearings were then moved a little outboard (possibly shortened a tad) so that there was no possibility of contact axially. This removed the pounding input from the crank, even when not running but the tractor is clunking around in teh field, that is thought to be the primary reason for loss of tightness in the dowels.
I did the same to my pony, and am very happy with the results. It wasn't hard for the machine shop to do, once I told them of the importance of centering the crank axially, then taking an equivalent amount of material off each end surface so that the washers could be roughly the same thickness.
Of course, none of this is necessary but it's a nice upgrade to improve the longevity of the bearing system. The bearings and thrust washers can be made out of aluminum, or oilite or similar material. New dowels are important.

neil wrote:

Ok sounds good. Would you have the serial # for the pony's previous owner's D2? I'm always on the lookout for my grandfather's D2 which was something like 5U14518 although I'm sure it headed to China decades ago