Yea when you refill with oil start it and work the trans selector through the gears, forward and back then it should shift easy.

Hi ,
the trans has a hydraulic/mechanical Safety Plunger that if the trans oil drops below about 100 PSI for about 15 seconds.
The plunger pushes the operators Trans Selector lever to Neutral via the safety valve spring.

A non official test we used at the Dealer to gauge a trans. Hyd Valve, pump, etc. system wear was by selecting, Fwd 3rd, and in turn, Rev 3rd, with the brakes applied at Low Idle and shutting the engine off each time and counting the seconds before the selector lever started to be moved back towards Neutral.
Rev was usually better than the most used Fwd.
Cannot recall the average times we looked for now.

To check crispness of engagement of the gears or for clutch slippage, operate the unit in a safe area at High Idle with brakes applied and blade dug into the ground--rippers too if fitted--and select each gear Fwd and Rev whilst observing how fast the Uni. Joint between the TC and the Trans stops--slipping clutch, the joint will continue spinning.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Well it's been a few weeks. After our shamozzle with third speed ring gear we are back together and have forwards and backwards action in 1 & 2 ! Yes it needs oil pressure to select gears, all good there.

All ram seals are done, blade is back on, equalizer rubbers are done under the tractor and the ones on the track frame (yes, these can be done with the tracks on.) one track is back off to attack the damaged pin and bush.

Installing the hose mounting gear so we can change out the tilt cylinder hose and run it nicely along inside like Mr Caterpillar wanted it.

Had some warmer weather which means we can get back into the blade, which is coming along nicely. We are going to put some extra support for the corner tips while it's in pieces and we have the leftover bits of steel lying around

Couldn't get a master link bush (which is straight not stepped) so the instruction was to get a stepped one and turn it down. Don't do this, it's a nightmare. Get the proper one to start with.

Got the 2 damaged bottom rollers out and only 1 broken bolt out of 8 which is apparently pretty good... broken at the thread about half way up so going to be a challenge to get that out.

New seat and cleaned all the floor bolts out so that's ready to go back on

Work has ramped back up so can't get into the track for another week or so. But i did find some dry ice, the local servo get's their iced creams delivered with it, and got a couple of big heating tips ready for another go. Also getting an old grouser i can cut up and use to keep the links square.

Fun times

"Neil" wrote:

I approve of that milk crate to prop the blade up - probably overkill but better safe than sorry ; )

Da-DaDaDa-Da, "Shake hands with danger" lol

"Rome wrote:

Da-DaDaDa-Da, "Shake hands with danger" lol

If you don't live life on the edge you are taking up too much room!

Broken track roller bolts are always a challenge.
But it can be done!
I have had success in drilling a smallish hole through the broken bolt first. Get the oxy and cut from the hole out to the edge of the thread both ways ( ie 180 deg apart ) then get a punch/chisel and knock the halves in till they fall through. Sounds difficult but it can be done.
If you have access to a magnetic based drill then life might be easier.
Good Luck

Cheers djcat.

"djcat" wrote:

Broken track roller bolts are always a challenge.
But it can be done!
I have had success in drilling a smallish hole through the broken bolt first. Get the oxy and cut from the hole out to the edge of the thread both ways ( ie 180 deg apart ) then get a punch/chisel and knock the halves in till they fall through. Sounds difficult but it can be done.
If you have access to a magnetic based drill then life might be easier.
Good Luck

Cheers djcat.

Yeah, i had thought somthing along those lines. Not ending up with a face full of hot metal slag will be the tricky bit though.

I might get the old bolt and put a hole it it with the lathe to use as a guide. I don't think I'll get the mag drill under there, but yeah that would be ideal.

Okay that was the easiest broken bolt so far and the first time ive ever got an ezy out to work.

Cut the head off the old bolt, stuck a 10mm drill through it on the lathe and used it as a guide. Followed up with a 13 and gently wound it out with the ezy out. Got to have the occasional win i suppose