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D4 going in the shop
D4 going in the shop
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7 years 1 month ago #160538
by d2gary
Got the D4 in the shop finally. It was a nasty rainy day so I gave it a little bath with the pressure washer. The belly pan was full of some oily tar dirt mixture that was really hard to get out. Should be good enough to get started and spot clean as I work on it.
Had some trouble getting it stared. After checking for fuel discovered no fuel flow so I put a jug of gas on the pony fuel line. The battery just didn't have enough juice even with the booster on it. Took the battery out of the welder and that did the trick. Pony would only run with the choke at 3/4 shut so looks like the carb is gonna need rebuilt and cleaned.
Got all of the makeshift tensioning system out of the way and will have to clean up the threads to see if there's any chance to adjust. The threads look pretty bad on the right side and the left side has a pipe over the rod. Not sure if that was an attempt at keeping the threads protected or keeping the track tight.
Yes it really is a horse shoe and honest it really was shoved in there
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7 years 1 month ago #160539
by neil
I believe I have now officially seen everything : ) Wonder what the horse thought about a) his job being lost to mechanization, and b) the danged robot also stealing his shoes! : )
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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7 years 1 month ago #160564
by dpendzic
looks like the carb needs cleaning and the pipe spacer is most likely to keep the idled out due to bad threads on the idler adjust nut or rod--if you can get a second nut on the rod that can work sometimes to adjust it out
D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY
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7 years 1 month ago #160599
by d2gary
You could clean the filter ass.2f3850 on manifold rear the flywell
Yes I started there but since all I wanted was in the shop I just put the gas jug on it to get it started. I will be cleaning entire gas fuel system. Thanks
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7 years 1 month ago #160604
by d2gary
looks like the carb needs cleaning and the pipe spacer is most likely to keep the idled out due to bad threads on the idler adjust nut or rod--if you can get a second nut on the rod that can work sometimes to adjust it out
Figured out what the pipe was for
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7 years 1 month ago #160662
by d2gary
Can someone give me part numbers for the track adjuster nuts for a 5t. I have a 7u parts book I've been using as a guide to work with but now I need to order parts.
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7 years 1 month ago #160663
by Old Magnet
If your referring to the split nut that gets clamped between the idler arms the 5T & 7U uses the same 2F0042 nut assembly.
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7 years 1 month ago #160683
by d2gary
If your referring to the split nut that gets clamped between the idler arms the 5T & 7U uses the same 2F0042 nut assembly.
That's the one thanks
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7 years 1 month ago #160992
by d2gary
I was hoping I didn't have to go to deep into this one but I think I'm at the point where it would be better to just get it done. There is some steering brake left but it looks like it's probably at least down to the rivets and oily. My service manual says it is possible to remove the brakes without removing the transmission cover but that there is no time savings versus removing it. Also the return spring on the left brake pedal is broken/missing. And I think the steering clutches are just about done plus they're stuck.
So I'm thinking just bite the bullet and tear it down to do the brakes, clutches, spring repair and get it cleaned out good etc. I don't want to do a complete restoration or overhaul but I think if I do this major work now I can use it this year and continue on at a later date. Does this sound like a good plan or should I take a chance on the brakes and clutches and run it and work on it later?
Steering clutches adjustment
Just as an added bonus some previous owner has already cut the transmission cover into 2 pieces and it looks like a quality job
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D4 going in the shop
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