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D4 going in the shop
D4 going in the shop
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7 years 1 month ago #161300
by d2gary
Tackled the track tension springs today. A friend has a 30 ton press we used to compress the springs and cut the old bolts out. We used some 5/8 threaded rod through the seats just as a safety measure. Everything went pretty smooth. One bolt was rusted to the seat so we had to cut the bolt head off so the spring would release.
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7 years 1 month ago #161572
by d2gary
Well the parts pile is getting bigger and the dozer is getting smaller. Found problems in the flywheel clutch linkage so that had to come out. Good used and or new coming from John at General Gear. Clutch had actually been upgraded to the steel tooth loader type disc and looks good. Just can't convince myself to take a chance on the steering clutches. They'll be coming out next to go to cat dealer.
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7 years 1 month ago #161602
by d2gary
I'm not an expert so all I can do is pass on what John at General Gear told me when I was ordering the linkage parts.(I sure he qualifies as an expert )
The clutch is a dry clutch and as far as I can tell the dimensions are the same. Instead of a solid fiber disc it has the metal disc with the driving teeth and the friction material bonded to the steel. John told me this was the type that was installed in loaders due to the typically more harsh operating conditions they encounter.
Having spun the teeth off of one in my D2 I really like having this upgrade
Found these little gems under the flywheel.
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7 years 1 month ago #161607
by Old Magnet
Thanks for the info. I didn't know they had such a thing. What is the part number for the disc?
I can only guess it was an option for the HT4 as all the 955's were oil clutch.
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7 years 1 month ago #161624
by neil
Hi Gary, John's replacement disk for the D2 is also a composite, although the center part is not steel but some kind of gold fibrous material. Just put one in mine.
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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7 years 1 month ago #161626
by d2gary
Sorry I don't have any more info on the clutch disc other than what John told me. Everything looked ok when I pulled it out so I didn't research it any further. I'll be cleaning it up and putting it back in.
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7 years 1 month ago #161668
by d2gary
Ran into a couple of stubborn parts trying to get the steering clutches out. Welded a bolt on the slide hammer and was able to get the steering shafts out. Was able to get one of the rivets out with a bolt and small hammer from the bottom. Had to weld threaded rod to the other one to use as a puller. It came right out and was able to cut the rod off and reuse the rivet
The brake shafts took a lot of heat to cook out the gunk that was in there but they finally came out. Used a makeshift puller to get them out also. $5 of threaded rod and nuts.
Clutches came out pretty easy and actually look really good. There was a lot of rust inside the outer drum.looks like if I can clean up the outside and soak the clutch assembly they can go back in. Needed to replace the seals between the bevel gear housing and the clutch compartment so nothing lost in pulling them out. I could see the seals coming out of the housing and when I pulled the bevel gear shafts out they were dry and falling apart
Hopefully with the cleaning I can do with the outer drum removed and getting some solvent down inbetween the clutches everything will break free and work right
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7 years 1 month ago #161670
by drujinin
Thank You for the photo's!
In about 6 months, someone will come along asking for help to do the same job.
Your photo's and details will be a Big Help to them!
Jeff
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7 years 1 month ago #161678
by Gregness
Nice that they (and the brakes) can be accessed without pulling the sprockets. I suspect that if I need to replace my brake linings on my D24U I will not be so lucky.
G
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D4 going in the shop
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