"gvanhouten" wrote:

If memory serves there is a square key way where the decompress would be. Are we saying that can be in the release portion? That would totally suck if it is...Can someone take a picture and post it.

If I am sitting in the seat it would be to knee height in my right leg and there is a cutout where I believe the shaft would have went through...

Photo of mine

There isn't much to see if the lever and shaft are removed. Just a short stub shaft sticking out from the head with a keyway for the coupling. The actual spring loaded detent/plunger device is under the valve cover about midway in the head.

Shaft would need to be turned 90 degrees counter clockwise viewed from the seat to go from start to run position. That would put the keyway in the 6:00 o'clock position.

"Old wrote:

There isn't much to see if the lever and shaft are removed. Just a short stub shaft sticking out from the head with a keyway for the coupling. The actual spring loaded detent/plunger device is under the valve cover about midway in the head.

Shaft would need to be turned 90 degrees counter clockwise viewed from the seat to go from start to run position. That would put the keyway in the 6:00 o'clock position.

I know for a fact that I don’t have the shaft or the lever but I do have the key way! Do I need to remove valve cover to see if they removed it? Unbelievable why didn’t the previous owner know about this?
So if it is in the run position does that mean it is decompressed? The start position means compression? What do I do next? Order handle and shaft reinstall???

Just the opposite, start is the decompressed position, run is compression.
What is the clock position of the visible keyway now?
I hate to say vice grips as suggested but that's probably the best tool to rotate the stub shaft if required.
I like the option of having a working start/run lever, even if it is direct start. One of the start options is to get the engine cranking in start mode then switch to compression to take advantage of the rotating momentum.

So when they take the lever and key out what the hell are you suppose to do? At least leave the lever and key to do the start then switch over to run mode....
I much rather have a pony motor at this rate then a starter...

So it must this lever change the valves to a manual closed position for compression? How could the previous owner ever start her then? Did cat do something regarding redo the heads.

Lots of comments here, firstly removing your complete injector pump is an odd shout, it would have been easier to check on the engine, the chance of all 6 pumps being scrap is "No Chance" on the D9G's I have worked on they have been fitted with the oil pressure controlled rack travel limiter but that would not stop your engine starting, a possible thing is lack of compression so a simple overhead set of valves would be a handy thing to do, if you have the decompress push rods still in place they can be removed to stop any issues, by the way Run position is full compression, Start position is Decompression, the lack of cranking speed is a direct result of Non Firing of the cylinders, as the cylinders fire the cranking speed increases until full running of the engine, the oil pressure rack control peg will let the engine start but not rev up to high idle to limit engine damage. tctractors

In this case the start/run (decompression/compression) mechanism would be left in the run position. Later standard installation direct start would have no mechanism at all.
Just handy to have the feature given the option.

"tctractors" wrote:

Lots of comments here, firstly removing your complete injector pump is an odd shout, it would have been easier to check on the engine, the chance of all 6 pumps being scrap is "No Chance" on the D9G's I have worked on they have been fitted with the oil pressure controlled rack travel limiter but that would not stop your engine starting, a possible thing is lack of compression so a simple overhead set of valves would be a handy thing to do, if you have the decompress push rods still in place they can be removed to stop any issues, by the way Run position is full compression, Start position is Decompression, the lack of cranking speed is a direct result of Non Firing of the cylinders, as the cylinders fire the cranking speed increases until full running of the engine, the oil pressure rack control peg will let the engine start but not rev up to high idle to limit engine damage. tctractors

There are no decompression push rods. The decompression is achieved by a flat area machined on a round shaft that either interferes with or allows the normal operation of the intake rocker arms which have a protrusion to follow the shaft profile.
If there is a rack limiter for this s/n range I can not find any info in the parts diagram or service manual that shows or describes that function.

"gvanhouten" wrote:

So when they take the lever and key out what the hell are you suppose to do? At least leave the lever and key to do the start then switch over to run mode....
I much rather have a pony motor at this rate then a starter...

So it must this lever change the valves to a manual closed position for compression? How could the previous owner ever start her then? Did cat do something regarding redo the heads.

They were probably stuffing around with it about 3 years ago and moved this shaft that "wasn't connected to anything and didn't do anything"

I appreciate everyone’s input and clearly a ton of knowledge here on the forum... I am a little confused as I understand the consensus is the IP would not prevent it from starting. However looking at the video the 3 pumps on the left look really weak compared to the ones on the right. She is an old girl and deserves a makeover. Better to be safe then sorry.

I am away on Business for a little over a week and will report back when I get home on the position of the key way where the start/run lever would have been.

Thank you every