ccjersey;230351 wrote:

Time for a visit from the ether bunny!

I'm thinking you have nothing to loose after knowing it got water down it! At least if you get it running you might get lucky and get some hours of work out of it before it deteriorates to the point of being useless. Turbo could be stuck, but should be simple to get it loose.

Went through that with our D7e we bought cheap. But we thought we were only limping along running the tracks to destruction. What we didn't realize was it had been lightly "ring stuck" at some point before we got it, so the excessive blow by that developed a strong puffing quality over a couple hundred hours was a surprise.

Ended up doing an inframe overhaul as well as replacing the tracks! Several rings were broken and a couple pistons had lots of damage which caused the huffing. When we pulled the heads, you could see the rust marks in the sleeves where it had been stuck even after all those hours.

The sad part is the engine was overhaul supposedly 1183 hours ago.... I am sure yanking the heads is a job actually two heads but if we must we must. But before that I will do a leak down test... and I might yank the injectors and use a camera to check her out. So I can wrap my head around this.

Can if I must leave the engine in or have to yank it to fix it? Not what I want to hear but the undercarriage is brand new and she is to good to leave and walk away from....

My question if the turbo is stuck that would. It prevent her from running correct? I can unbolt and lube the turbo and spin her...

I need to get her started if possible to move her as she is in the mud. Not pleasant to work on that’s for sure....

A stuck turbo would have little or no influence on getting it started. Now if it was plugged up that's another story.
Engine can be "in frame" overhauled if desired unless there are issues with the crankshaft.

"Old wrote:

A stuck turbo would have little or no influence on getting it started. Now if it was plugged up that's another story.
Engine can be "in frame" overhauled if desired unless there are issues with the crankshaft.

I didn’t think the turbo would stop her... leak down boroscope anything else before I start yanking heads?

I would have to drop the belly pan and remove the bottom of the engine pan and remove pistons to put new rings on and possibly new cylinder sleeves? And of course timing chain and let’s make sure we are timed properly!!!! Lol.... my specialty....

Pistons/rods and liners can all be removed from up top. Access to rod bolts is through the engine side covers. Not handy but can be done. Timing is all gears, you shouldn't have to mess with that. You could run compression test instead of leak down test...if your starter is up to a good work out.

"oldbeek" wrote:

still don't see where George put a nozzle on the end of a line to see an actual spray pattern. Did I miss a post?

Have you done this yet?

"Misterskill" wrote:

Have you done this yet?

I have not as I exhausted the fuel side. And just heard about water being in engine...

Make sure the turbo spins freely. Make sure the exhaust is coming out of it. Spent a lot of time and money a few years ago with a 333 that wouldn't start. Turns out it had a manifold plugged with rust. Rebuilt the injection pump, and then the whole engine and it still wouldn't run. Took the exhaust manifold off and it started right up. Found the exhaust plugged with rust flakes and once they were all cleaned out it ran great.

"gvanhouten" wrote:

I have not as I exhausted the fuel side. And just heard about water being in engine...

You have NOT exhausted the fuel side till you do this very simple basic test. If you get good spray pattern from each pump, then you check each pump timing measurement. Then you will have exhausted the fuel side of the inspection.

"oldbeek" wrote:

You have NOT exhausted the fuel side till you do this very simple basic test. If you get good spray pattern from each pump, then you check each pump timing measurement. Then you will have exhausted the fuel side of the inspection.

No I have not done the spray pattern yet. I will make sure I exhaust everything before I yank the head.

I have not touched the turbo and will check into that to make sure she is free but more importantly check the exhaust manifold for non obstructions... I need to buy a boroscope a better one then I have.

I have to also verify my timing on injection pump and flywheel with compression stroke of #1 cylinder for TDC. I should be getting same smoke amount out of engine as before. I have not.

"gvanhouten" wrote:

No I have not done the spray pattern yet. I will make sure I exhaust everything before I yank the head.

I have not touched the turbo and will check into that to make sure she is free but more importantly check the exhaust manifold for non obstructions... I need to buy a boroscope a better one then I have.

I have to also verify my timing on injection pump and flywheel with compression stroke of #1 cylinder for TDC. I should be getting same smoke amount out of engine as before. I have not.

. Each pump inside of your injector pump has a specific adjustment. This adjustment is done with the side off of the injection pump. The adjustment is done at the point when that particular pump/cylinder is at TDC. The previous owner said it was always a hard starter. Someone previously may have used the wrong measurement when setting all of the pumps. If the settings are loose then the injector fires late. Causing hard start. The adjustments will get loose with wear also. Did you get my PM? I could talk you through the procedure.