It is checked then because the mark is put on the stick to indicate the oil level in that condition, but I guess you got that part.

That setup allows checking oil without shutting down during a shift or when an engine is continuously operated (generator duty for instance) It also ensures that all oil coolers and filters etc are filled so the level on the stick indicates what’s actually in the sump during operation.

"ccjersey" wrote:

It is checked then because the mark is put on the stick to indicate the oil level in that condition, but I guess you got that part.

That setup allows checking oil without shutting down during a shift or when an engine is continuously operated (generator duty for instance) It also ensures that all oil coolers and filters etc are filled so the level on the stick indicates what’s actually in the sump during operation.

Thank you.... Does it matter the idle speed? I know it says low idle....What happens if my idle or governor needs adjustment??? I messed with the settings at first on the governor with the two different idle speeds low idle and high idle.... I need to go back and sort that out as to adjust the idle so the governor when pushed all the way forward right before the shut off detent idles at low idle....

Anybody do it without the special tools in the service manual??? Maybe someone knows how many revolutions of the nut to get it close....

Thanks in advance as usual... I will post a video of me operating the dozer.... She sure is fun and boy can I take a tree down now.....LOL

Hi George,
well done with how you have stuck with this and are now seeing some value.
Pleased to hear both the engine and trans oil levels seem to now be stabilized.

For the head nut re-torque I suggest that you loosen each nut around 1/4 to 1/3 of 1 nut flat before you re-tension them.

Cat Engineering often had us do this at The Dealer for engine evaluation on new models in the field as a check that the head torque was staying at their designed set value after in field operation--sometimes it can be surprising how much more degrees of turn can result if this is done as the nut can stick a bit in the threads and on its face and so trip the torque wrench without the nut moving and yet be below spec. torque.
We had to mark the nuts initial position and record how far the nut advanced to its new correct re-torqued position from its old working position and send them the results.

The head gaskets you have on the D9 are of a design that requires re-torquing after the initial start and run up to operating temperature after new gaskets are fitted and again after 50 to 100 hours of operation.
Later design gaskets on engines now a days usually have mono-torque gaskets of a material that does not relax after the initial run to operating temperature.

Low Idle speed should be around 475 +/- 10 rpm and the decelerator 700 +/- 50 rpm.
I do not know what degree of turn change the Low Idle screw would make--only ever set them with a tacho and adjusted to spec.
Parasitic loads can change the L/I rpm so do this and any adjustments on the machine for that matter with machine systems at operating temperature.
Cat Specs are values that have been tested and recorded at operating temperature--only one I can think of right now that is Not would be the T/Converter Inlet Pressure as that is an over pressure Safety Valve for cold oil and can only be done off the machine and on a test bench.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

"edb" wrote:

Hi George,
well done with how you have stuck with this and are now seeing some value.
Pleased to hear both the engine and trans oil levels seem to now be stabilized.

For the head nut re-torque I suggest that you loosen each nut around 1/4 to 1/3 of 1 nut flat before you re-tension them.

Cat Engineering often had us do this at The Dealer for engine evaluation on new models in the field as a check that the head torque was staying at their designed set value after in field operation--sometimes it can be surprising how much more degrees of turn can result if this is done as the nut can stick a bit in the threads and on its face and so trip the torque wrench without the nut moving and yet be below spec. torque.
We had to mark the nuts initial position and record how far the nut advanced to its new correct re-torqued position from its old working position and send them the results.

The head gaskets you have on the D9 are of a design that requires re-torquing after the initial start and run up to operating temperature after new gaskets are fitted and again after 50 to 100 hours of operation.
Later design gaskets on engines now a days usually have mono-torque gaskets of a material that does not relax after the initial run to operating temperature.

Low Idle speed should be around 475 +/- 10 rpm and the decelerator 700 +/- 50 rpm.
I do not know what degree of turn change the Low Idle screw would make--only ever set them with a tacho and adjusted to spec.
Parasitic loads can change the L/I rpm so do this and any adjustments on the machine for that matter with machine systems at operating temperature.
Cat Specs are values that have been tested and recorded at operating temperature--only one I can think of right now that is Not would be the T/Converter Inlet Pressure as that is an over pressure Safety Valve for cold oil and can only be done off the machine and on a test bench.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Eddie,

Thank you for your help and it seems like you know this machine inside and out.... She is an amazing engineering feat....when you think of the age and the hours and to think to this day she still runs and performs is mind boggling... I will go ahead and turn the head nuts back 1/4 turn mark before I re-torque them and I will get a paint pen and mark them where they are at now that way I can compare to where the proper torque is.... I will let you know... For now I need to remove the bottom right ripper cylinder and get them repacked with new o-rings kit.... I will take that in to Cat as that nut is huge and I have nothing for it but I do have a new nut. I just can't stand cylinders leaking a ton of hydraulic fluid and running them that way.... No leaks.....


I will keep you posted and thank you Eddie.... Appreciate your encouragement as well.... Cheers....
George

Only loosen 1 nut at a time.

"kracked1" wrote:

Only loosen 1 nut at a time.

Usually, and correct me if I am wrong there is a torque sequence and it usually involves multiple steps to get to the proper torque... So say it was 180 ft pounds... Typically you try to break that up into 3 torques.... 60, 120. 180... I have done this as not to distort the head... I understand to do one at a time... Back off a 1/4 and then go to full torque spec... If I am wrong someone please correct me.... Thanks for the tip... Is this something that needs to be re-torqued every 100 hours??? Let me know thanks...

Like Ed explained earlier,
Mark them
Back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn - breaks stickiness loose
Torque to Final Spec Value - Full Torque Value
See how much further it moved if any

Only needs to be done the one time at 100 hours or so after rebuild.

What do you think your head gasket is leaking?
Bob

A lot of those old girls weep/leak at the headgasket..... for many years. It doesn't hurt them in any way, other than making a little mess.

"bluox" wrote:

What do you think your head gasket is leaking?
Bob

Yes just leaking it appears on the governor side. the whole length. Just seeping nothing crazy...