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Stuck In Hawaii D9G Still Wont start!!! Bad Injection Pump????

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4 years 2 months ago #212600 by neil
I’m curious as to techniques to prevent head movement - the Mack E9 also had that problem

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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4 years 2 months ago #212602 by gvanhouten

Valve cover gaskets 8M1357 (2-req'd)
Valve cover stud seals 8F4994 (6- req'd)
Rocker box (base) gaskets 5H2620 (2- req'd)
De-compression shaft seals 5H1190 (3- req'd)


As usual you are the best thank you OM...... Truly appreciate it many of us can't thank you enough....

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4 years 2 months ago #212603 by gvanhouten

Hi kittylover,
George has written above of the head gaskets leaking.

There were issues with the non combustion sealing gasket areas at the follower apertures on D353/D9 engines --high cam engines with followers in the heads, if I recall correctly--between the block and the heads and also the push rod aperture gaskets on later D7, & D8 engines until, from memory, Cat went to silicon ribbed ones.

A re-torque may not fix a leak here but if done the way outlined above there should be no danger of upsetting a non-leaking combustion sealed head gasket--if leaking there then it on most occasions helps re-seal them up.
Much later higher output engines had trouble with dancing/moving cylinder heads and leaking due to high combustion pressures likely outside original engineering design levels in an attempt to keep up with the opposition claims of more HP than said machines--D8K is a classic of this--basic D8 engine started life at around 115 Hp and ended up somewhere around 300 Hp--I stand to be corrected.

Your experience may vary due to poor fitting practices in the past or early style aperture gaskets etc.

Cheers,
Eddie B.



Eddie, Thank you for your insight.... I don't mean to open a can of whatever up... My question was simple and you answered it so thank you thank you... I will re-torque and see if that helps.... Like I stated it is oil and just seeping... Again, much appreciation for your wisdom....

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4 years 2 months ago #212612 by kittyman1
-also wondering if we're dealing with typical Head bolts with a hex head?

- or is it a head stud threaded into block that protrudes through head fastened with a nut?

always dropping GOLD, all you have to do is just pick it UP !

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4 years 2 months ago #212613 by Deas Plant.
Replied by Deas Plant. on topic Kee-wreck-ted?
Hi, Kittylover 123.
I do stand to be kee-wreck-ted on this but I think the D9Gs had head bolts down into the block and later D9Hs had bolts coming up from the block with nuts on top. That change may have come in with the spacer plate engines, whatever serial # that was at.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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4 years 2 months ago #212615 by kittyman1
Replied by kittyman1 on topic Clamping Force !
-thanks for the clarification Deas !

-from my automotive experience, supposedly there's a big difference in clamping force/ability between bolts..and studs with nuts...

-also the type of lube on the threads/underside of bolt head/nut... can affect the torque values

always dropping GOLD, all you have to do is just pick it UP !

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4 years 2 months ago #212617 by Old Magnet

Hi, Kittylover 123.
I do stand to be kee-wreck-ted on this but I think the D9Gs had head bolts down into the block and later D9Hs had bolts coming up from the block with nuts on top. That change may have come in with the spacer plate engines, whatever serial # that was at.

Just my 0.02.


It's the other way round. Early non-spacer plate engines used studs and nuts, spacer plate engines use cap screws (bolts).
Coarse there's always an exception, spacer plate engines for the D9H with engine s/n 97U10675 up had two studs (for head alignment I assume)

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4 years 2 months ago #212619 by Rome K/G
D4 tractors serial #'s 7U40702-up used bolts on the starting engine cylinder heads rather than studs also.

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4 years 1 month ago #214176 by gvanhouten
It has been awhile and I hope everyone is doing okay... We are all stuck at home here and I am back working on my D9G....


It appears I have a pretty good leak coming from the prechamber #3. I thought it was the head but it is coming out of the pre-chamber.


The other leak is the transmission the steering clutch mechanism. It is leaking from the rubber boots...

The last leak I know how to fix is the crush washer on the primary filter...


I need help fixing the prechamber and the steering clutches... Any ideas would be helpful... Thank you for Hawaii....

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4 years 1 month ago #214203 by Rome K/G
Good to hear from you! Those orings around the top of the chambers can go bad and look like oil but it is coolant, drain the coolant down and remove the chamber and clean the ring surface area on the head good, clean the prechamber if reusable, anti-seize the threads and oil the oring and around the head area, install bottom washer, torque chamber to 200 ft lbs. I dont know if you have the special tool to remove the chambers? Its the splined bolt type.

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