"kracked1" wrote:

A lot of those old girls weep/leak at the headgasket..... for many years. It doesn't hurt them in any way, other than making a little mess.

Sounds good.... I dont like them seeping or leaking.... I like my girls to be clean.... I just like it neat we will see if re-torque does the trick...

"gvanhouten" wrote:

Yes just leaking it appears on the governor side. the whole length. Just seeping nothing crazy...

What is it leaking ? Oil ,coolant, peanut butter ?
Bob

"bluox" wrote:

What is it leaking ? Oil ,coolant, peanut butter ?
Bob

I love me some peanut butter.... No just oil......

Your head gasket won't leak oil so it's a waste of time to retorque head studs.
Buy the gaskets for the rocker boxes and replace them. Put some rags in the push rod holes so you don't lose the hold down bolts.
Make a peanut butter samich to eat with all the time you save.
Bob

While I had the rocker boxes off, I sure would retorque the head.

Many engines the decompression shaft runs through the box and rocker arm shaft supports, so you can’t get the box off without taking the rocker arm shaft off too. Not sure on the D9 though. There’s usually some nuts under the rocker arm you can’t get to without moving it out of the way.

"ccjersey" wrote:

While I had the rocker boxes off, I sure would retorque the head.

Many engines the decompression shaft runs through the box and rocker arm shaft supports, so you can’t get the box off without taking the rocker arm shaft off too. Not sure on the D9 though. There’s usually some nuts under the rocker arm you can’t get to without moving it out of the way.

Are we calling the valve covers/ the rocker boxes???? Old Magnet do you have the part # for the valve cover gaskets???

Hi Team,
this is what I said, not 1/4 of turn.

For the head nut re-torque I suggest that you loosen each nut around 1/4 to 1/3 of 1 nut flat before you re-tension them.

That was Cat's directive for this check.

Yes, do one nut at a time --I guess I omitted to state this was well.

Then you only need to re-torque to full spec. torque, one nut at a time in the sequence given in the Serv. Manual.

I had been shown this way for older multi layer head gaskets back when I was a Dealer Apprentice-- in the mid 1960's--to the best of my knowledge it has worked OK all this time and on the ones I did as described above.


Cheers,
Eddie B.

"edb" wrote:

Hi Team,
this is what I said, not 1/4 of turn.

For the head nut re-torque I suggest that you loosen each nut around 1/4 to 1/3 of 1 nut flat before you re-tension them.

That was Cat's directive for this check.

Yes, do one nut at a time --I guess I omitted to state this was well.

Then you only need to re-torque to full spec. torque, one nut at a time in the sequence given in the Serv. Manual.

I had been shown this way for older multi layer head gaskets back when I was a Dealer Apprentice-- in the mid 1960's--to the best of my knowledge it has worked OK all this time and on the ones I did as described above.


Cheers,
Eddie B.

Eddie: would you still recommend head bolt re-torque if there were no direct issues with head gasket?


-isn't that trying to fix something that "ain't broke"?

Valve cover gaskets 8M1357 (2-req'd)
Valve cover stud seals 8F4994 (6- req'd)
Rocker box (base) gaskets 5H2620 (2- req'd)
De-compression shaft seals 5H1190 (3- req'd)

Hi kittylover,
George has written above of the head gaskets leaking.

There were issues with the non combustion sealing gasket areas at the follower apertures on D353/D9 engines --high cam engines with followers in the heads, if I recall correctly--between the block and the heads and also the push rod aperture gaskets on later D7, & D8 engines until, from memory, Cat went to silicon ribbed ones.

A re-torque may not fix a leak here but if done the way outlined above there should be no danger of upsetting a non-leaking combustion sealed head gasket--if leaking there then it on most occasions helps re-seal them up.
Much later higher output engines had trouble with dancing/moving cylinder heads and leaking due to high combustion pressures likely outside original engineering design levels in an attempt to keep up with the opposition claims of more HP than said machines--D8K is a classic of this--basic D8 engine started life at around 115 Hp and ended up somewhere around 300 Hp--I stand to be corrected.

Your experience may vary due to poor fitting practices in the past or early style aperture gaskets etc.

Cheers,
Eddie B.