No real need to readjust if you don’t change any adjuster settings. Don’t know why you would. The rocker arm supports won’t be any different position or height once you’re through. Might be worthwhile doing a quick check on the valves that are loose once you get it back together and confirm they’re where they were before you started.

"ccjersey" wrote:

No real need to readjust if you don’t change any adjuster settings. Don’t know why you would. The rocker arm supports won’t be any different position or height once you’re through. Might be worthwhile doing a quick check on the valves that are loose once you get it back together and confirm they’re where they were before you started.

Thanks ccjersey, I looked in the book and pretty simple to remove and no mention of adjusting valves... These valves have been adjusted numerous times.... Thanks again.... I am in it now... Started to paint her to get her back to her glory.... Valve covers rocker box ect....

Okay the Ripper cylinder have all been removed and repacked... I did it myself and used a 4 inch striking wrench and it was rough but mission accomplished... I like to repack everything myself as I take my time and know the job is done right and every was cleaned prior to putting new packings in...

Okay so now I have the tilt cylinder left and as you know it is a ball on one end with a 1" approx square that secures it in position.... Any ideas on what to use to secure it in place? I know take it to cat but my dealer said they would weld the ball end put it in their hydraulic table.... I think this is ridiculous.... I am trying to fabricate something....Any ideas would help....


Got the rocker boxes back together and it appears the gasket was ripped and was probably leaking from there.... I did not replace the seals that are inside the shaft as I know they where not leaking and did not want to tear into something... All other seals where replaced.... I went ahead and painted the valve covers and the rocker boxes...


My next step is lip seals replaced on the steering clutches as I am loosing a fair amount and I am sure they are original....


Let me know your thoughts on the lift cylinder as before I start her up I need my hydraulics all put back together....


Thanks in advance...George

Hi Team,
we used to have an old No 12 grader side shift cylinder rod that we welded a piece of, I think, good grade 1" key steel across the end of said rod.
Sometimes if we got to the point of twisting the key steel up when using our cylinder bench we simply gouged the nut off and fitted a new one.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

"edb" wrote:

Hi Team,
we used to have an old No 12 grader side shift cylinder rod that we welded a piece of, I think, good grade 1" key steel across the end of said rod.
Sometimes if we got to the point of twisting the key steel up when using our cylinder bench we simply gouged the nut off and fitted a new one.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks Eddie, I just got it back from the hydraulic shop... They welded 1" inch square stock and took care of the cylinder.... Now to put it back in... Time to do the lip seals tomorrow on the steering clutches....


Always something to do on her when she was neglected...

"Neil" wrote:

Pretty soon though George it'll be in production-ready condition : )

Thanks Neil long way to go to that....

Okay so I took apart the Steering clutch control Valve where the rods go through under the seat.... I of course detached the pins from the arms and removed the levers that attaches. I removed the 5 bolts and have the box on the bench... I cleaned the outside as it was beyond dirty.... I cannot see how this rod is removed to replace the 2 lip seals... There is a metal ring that needs to be removed that holds it in place but way to far to get access to it... Secondly it looks like the opposite side needs to be knocked out and repressed in to move rod to get access to it.... Sorry for the rant just trying to figure it out...

Also looks like I am going to need a gasket for it

and the lip seals there are two that the rod goes through that I have the correct part for but where steering clutch body sits on there is another different type... Any help would be useful....

Rocker boxes back and cylinders all back and did a bunch under the hood while I was there.... Bring this old girl back to life is no easy task but enjoyable...


Thanks George

There’s a way........but it’s not always obvious just by looking at it.

I have never worked on one that big but the D6 (and D7 I think) from the late 40’s through the 50’s use a hydraulic boosted unit that sounds like it would be similar to yours. Anyway the guides that hold the seals for the plungers in the front where the linkage comes in, have to be pulled out of the housing to replace. Problem is there’s retaining pins that must be drilled out first.

So you need the actual procedure for yours and it’ll save a lot of headache. Maybe someone has that or if you have a serviceman’s reference book for your tractor it’ll usually be in there.

"ccjersey" wrote:

There’s a way........but it’s not always obvious just by looking at it.

I have never worked on one that big but the D6 (and D7 I think) from the late 40’s through the 50’s use a hydraulic boosted unit that sounds like it would be similar to yours. Anyway the guides that hold the seals for the plungers in the front where the linkage comes in, have to be pulled out of the housing to replace. Problem is there’s retaining pins that must be drilled out first.

So you need the actual procedure for yours and it’ll save a lot of headache. Maybe someone has that or if you have a serviceman’s reference book for your tractor it’ll usually be in there.

Thanks CC I do have a service manual but it only shows pictures and labels the part.... I did find the gasket in my parts book... Previous owner used a hose clamp and some silicone to try and stop the leak... Ridiculous... Just fix the damn thing the right way first.... Thanks for your help.... It has to be simple here I am just missing it.... I will keep everyone updated...