this is what my float looks like

Looks like the float has been modified to fit the shorter float needle already. Have you tried it yet?

One would think that a $75 carb kit from the Carburetor Shop would include more than just gaskets and mixture screws. Most of the "deluxe kits" in that price range (or less) that I have bought over the years have also included new throttle & choke shafts with bushings, new welch plugs, float bowl screws and sometimes even a new float.

so to deal with the float should i be able to heat it up and pull the extension off or do i need to grind it off?

It looks soldered on. I would try heating it up and pulling the "adapter" off. Your new needle and seat should work just great then.

Looks like its old solder! Are you sure it doesn't belong in there? I haven't had that particuliar style of Carb apart but is it possible to adjust the floats to get the correct fuel level without taking that off? Remember that this ran before, possibly for years with a needle and seat and that tab on there. You've admitted that you don't know alot about engines previously, so maybe your reasoning to remove this isn't the best nor the correct idea?

this is the size difference between the two... the one on the left is the new one, and there is no way that i can minipulate the float to work... the man at the carb shop said that he buys the carb kit directly from zenith so it is the right needle and seat

If the New needle/seat is longer than the one that was in it that would explain the "extension" soldered on to the float hinge. I would take it off and use the new parts. Be careful when heating the float, you don't want too much heat and have the floats come loose too!.

Use a propane torch with a low flame. Grab the "extension" with a pair of needle nose pliers and hold the float assembly about an inch above your bench. Heat the extension carefully until the solder melts and the float drops onto the bench. Use a file to clean up all the old solder from where the extension was so the new needle has a smooth surface to ride on. If you're careful (and brave) you can heat the old solder with a torch until it melts and wipe it off with an old rag (remember that it's HOT).

that is a verry good point, i would of never thought of that... thankyou

I agree with Rich except, I would tell you not to hold the extension. You want the heat to go into that brass piece, not to the floats. In my opinion I would hold the arms with needle nose pliers to act as heat sinks to prevent the heat from getting to the floats. When the extension falls off, then wipe it. Don't reheat it, then try to wipe it as you may possibly lose your floats.

That extension looks like it's 1/4" solid brass stock. Solid stock will take much longer to heat than the thin stamped hinge. Not trying to argue but I've learned over the years that it's better to put the heat on the larger mass and it will transfer to the smaller mass. If you put the heat on the smaller mass (hinge) it could transfer out to the floats before getting the larger mass (extension) up to melting temp. By focusing the heat on the extension, the solder should melt quickly before the heat has a chance to make it out to the floats.

To be safe, you could wrap a piece of wet paper towel around the hinge next to each float to act as a heat sink. Good point about using the pliers as a heat sink too!

Just my opinion.