"kracked1" wrote:

3/16 of an inch will make a huge difference. I would leave the yoke on the top.

lcm, I agree with Mike. Leave the yoke on the top where it is supposed to be. Two wrongs don't make a right. Ray

X3-if the manual page you posted, as well as Mike's photo, shows it on top, why exactly are you even talking about putting it on the bottom?

because others have said i may get more movement out of the clutch so it will disengage instead of grinding... i will try it with the yoke on top as it shows in the manual and it that doesn't work then i will try it on bottom...

Non-existant user wrote:

because others have said i may get more movement out of the clutch so it will disengage instead of grinding... i will try it with the yoke on top as it shows in the manual and it that doesn't work then i will try it on bottom...

There's a great guy on here called "Edb" who ran a Cat Dealer workshop for a long time, he's retired now, and he gave me some very good advice about a year ago when I was trying to fix a old Cat, "Mike" he said, "always return the tractor to it's original design and delivery specifications before attempting new repairs and modifications", and I've found that darn good advice.

That means in your situation LCM you re-install the correct thrust bearing and any associated washers or spacers, then straighten the cross shaft if necessary, and build up the cross shaft forks that hold the thrust bearing carrier with weld and machine back to correct size, and check the ends of that cross shaft for wear and repair if necessary, and double check the thickness of the clutch plate, and find a way to check the clutch spring tensions are close to correct spec BEFORE you even think about changing the location of the yoke.

I've found that good advice ever since, and it might take a extra hour or two to go the extra yard, but you will be amazed at how well it works, because those Cat Designers and Engineers were no fools and the design of those early crawlers was pretty fool proof and rugged, so much so that fool farmers like me with no formal Mechanical training and with only a hand full of basic tools could do about 95% of the repair work on them.
regards
Mike

okay i see... that is very good advice... gerr lol... i need to find somewhere around here that will teach me about machining... the furthest i have gone is welding torching and bending... but only being 16 i cant even be in the machining class at our little college.....hmmm

Machining is not that hard. Basically, you start with a chunk of metal and cut off everything that doesn't look like what you're making.

lol... okay i have tried that with a torch...
lets just say it never turns out like i picture it!!!

Many years ago, I spent a summer in a shop on the East Coast working with a man who built a fully functional rifle with a hacksaw, file, hammer and chisel. Point is 150 years ago, they didn't have luxories like a torch and a fully functional machine shop. Neither does Mike Meyers as near as I can figure?? Mike told you to build it up, Well? That means add metal to it, option one is to electric weld, option two is to use Oxy-Acet and braze. Then take the second oldest machine tool in the world (FILE) and proceed to make it look like the picture in your mind. When you can make it by hand patiently and correctly, then you can progress to using power machining. Always remember, patience will get you farther, without having to fix it twice.
Jeff
PS
The last 22 I had here to part out had the linkage over the top, I think(?)

okay i see what your talking about... you don't need all the fancy equipntment to do it you can just use hand tools... as for welding what would be best to use arc or mig(using stargon for air)? i am NOT good at tig or oxy-accetylene... and then what rod if arc is best?

well the motor is bolted up to the tranny!!!
heres my youtube link

i still have to adjust the clutch break but it is still working