Reverse is "left and up", Second is straight down below Reverse, First is "right and up" with Third down below First!

Oil is a great discussion, one that is better for a Search as opinions vary widely. Me, personally I would run a Detergent straight 40 as modern 40 SEEMS closer to vintage 30. Change it more often as it will indeed wash the crud out.
BUT!
It may also wash the crud out from behind the rings and off from the valve stems making the engine start to "use" oil. That is a chance you have to take. If you indeed plan to run it in Winter Cold, then a 15W-? would be a good choice!
I would change all the other lubricants before I run it much, I use 85W-140 in all the other compartments.
Spend the money to change the Coolant, preferrably after it has been run hot and hard to get all the Crap into suspension to drain out also. Never trust someone else to have the correct Freeze ratio of Coolant in there!
My Two Cents,
Jeff

I was always told that if it has an oil filter detergent oil. Since it keeps the crud in suspension so it gets carried to the filter. No filter, non detergent as you want it to drop the crud so it doesnt get carried thru the bearings many times over. That is the rule I have followed for many years with everything. Look at the new "lawnmower oil" it is non detergent, they have no filters.

okay since i have a filter ill go with detergent, and as for all the others like finals why the 85-140? isnt it a little thick?

Non-existant user wrote:

okay since i have a filter ill go with detergent, and as for all the others like finals why the 85-140? isnt it a little thick?

More than a little thick, it's a Lot Thick. It's what's used in the transmission though. The thicker oil acts as almost a grease and it's sticky to lube the gear teeth.

Just a side note, the transmission on my '31 Allis Chalmers "U" holds 7 gallons of that gear lube ($$$$).

ohhh my.... would 75-90 be okay or is it too thin?

and how do i wire an off switch for it? i am to the point that im tired of choking it to kill it...
oh by the way i pulled it outside to drive on the snow for about 6 mins...(first time its snowed all year and we get around 8" in two days)

75-90 is OK if that is what is available. Must be free as you asked about that particular weight.

On the side of the magneto should be a stud.
Attach a wire there, touch the wire to "ground" and it should kill the magneto. Now you understand the principle of it. Run that wire up to where ever and attach a simple open/close (off/on) switch. Attach a second wire on the switch to the frame/engine. When the switch is open(off), it will run. When it is closed(on), it will stop.
Clear as mud?

clearer lol.. as clear as moonshine lol!!! okay as for the stud on the mag... there is a brass one on the front and if i touch a ground to it it does nothing... am i supposed to be looking for a different one?

Unless you are planning on re-starting it shortly, just shut off the fuel from the tank and let it run the carb dry to kill it. I do not let fuel set in the carb of any of my gas motors when not in use.

i am planing on running it for a couple hours to make sure its running good and im going to put a quart of ATF in the oil and run it before i do an oil change... so it will be ran often...

okay... i will be putting new fluids in final, transmittion and in the motor here shortly and the next thing i need to know is with the transmittion and finals were are the drain and fill plugs?